Plectranthus is an Old World genus of about 350 species inhabiting warm tropical and subtropical climates principally in the southern hemisphere. Its range extends from sub-Saharan Africa through Madagascar, India and the Indonesian archipelago down to Australia and some Pacific islands. Plectranthus is the largest South African genus in the mint and sage family (Lamiaceae), with 44 species natural to our region, most of which occur on the eastern side of the country.

Some Plectranthus make good pot plants which can be moved around as needed and will fill a 25cm pot in a matter of months.

A French magistrate and keen botanist, Charles Louis L’Héritier de Brutelle, was the first to describe the genus Plectranthus in 1788 based on P. fruticosus as type species. The Scottish botanist Francis Masson, a dedicated plant hunter for the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, on a joint plant collecting expedition with Carl Thunberg to the Cape in 1774, had collected seed from the wild and sent it to William Aiton who raised the seedlings in the glasshouses at Kew. L’Héritier saw the plants and realised that they represented a new genus which he named Plectranthus. Plectron = spur and anthos = flower. He may have been a bit hasty, however, as he later discovered that his new species is in fact the only member of the genus that actually has a spur.

Among the South African members of the genus are some of the showiest garden plants providing a mass display of colour in late summer and autumn. Colour selections range between pink, purple and white with many shades in-between. There are two species which do have yellow flowers but they are not good garden plants and their flowers are too small to be attractive.

Plectranthus are noted for their aromatic leaves when crushed or even brushed against, and the variety of aromas is as diverse as the genus itself. Plectranthus flowers produce large amounts of nectar, attracting many insects which transfer pollen between flowers.

GROWING PLECTRANTHUS

Plectranthus are easily cultivated and require little extra attention or special treatment. They enjoy well-composted soils, and as a rule thrive in semi shade or cool positions on south facing aspects. They are ideally suited to growth under the shade of trees. They are generally shallow rooted and enjoy adequate water but they do store water in their stems and are resistant to prolonged periods of drought. Plectranthus are often grown for their attractive foliage, flowers or both and vary in their growth forms from dense prostrate ground covers to sub-shrubs and large shrubs.

Although they are frost tender they are usually grown in shady protected places and as such are afforded some protection from frost. Due to the fact that they all flower at the end of the growing season frost does not affect flowering. If the plants are affected by frost they can be cut back at the end of winter and will grow out rapidly. Once the plants have been established for a year or more they become woodier at the base and are more resistant to frost damage.

Most of the shrubby species make better, more dense and attractive shrubs if they are pruned back to between 1/3 and 1/4 of their height, at the end of winter before the new growth begins for summer. The ideal time to dress the soil with a thick layer of compost or organic mulch and an application of balanced fertilizer such as 2:3:2 is straight after pruning. Ground cover species rarely need to be pruned, other than occasional cleaning up of old growth and flower spikes.

The ground cover species often have very attractive foliage and form dense attractive carpets from 150mm to 450mm thick, which burst into flower in autumn. They root readily at the nodes wherever they touch the ground, and will form dense mats in a relatively short time.

Shrubby species vary in height from 50cm to 2m and may be planted en-masse or as single individuals. Once again most species enjoy shade but there are a few which can endure full sun.

PROPAGATION

Plectranthus are exceptionally easy to propagate and can be produced very easily with little special treatment. Most propagation is done from cuttings during the early part of summer and spring. Although the cuttings will root at any time of the year, they have a long summer ahead to establish if they are propagated at this time. Cuttings may take the form of soft-wood or semi-hardwood, but tip cuttings are usually the best.

The cuttings should have at least two nodes and the leaves should be removed from the lower portion. Rooting hormone is usually not necessary and has been known to cause the cuttings to rot. The cuttings should be inserted one third of their length into clean double washed river sand and kept in a warm shady place and not be allowed to dry out.

A FEW FAVOURITE SPECIES AND CULTIVARS

Plectranthus fruticosus (Common name: blue spurflower)

The striking new cultivar, P. fruticosus ‘Liana’, is distinct in that its flower colour is a dark blue-mauve, and in that it tends to have its flowering peak a few weeks later than the other cultivated forms of this species. Its semi-woody well-branched perennial growth habit results in a neat and dense rounded shrub around 1m - 1.5m high.

The inflorescence is in the form of an erect, branched panicle arising from the tips of the branches and in the axils of the uppermost pair of leaves, each panicle reaching up to 300 mm long and supporting approximately 600 flowers, with 6 flowers at each node. The calyx at the base of the flower is green, fading to purple at the mouth, 8 mm long at flowering and enlarging to 12 mm after the flower has dropped.

This cultivar is also distinctive in its growth requirements in that it grows most vigorously when it receives a fair amount of direct sun. It will tolerate shade happily but the growth rate will be much slower and the flowers will be paler. In nature the plant will survive for about 5 years but this can be increased in cultivation through regular pruning.

Plectranthus ecklonii (Common name: large spurflower)

Plectranthus ecklonii is a soft, erect, fast growing shrub to 3 metres tall. The leaves are arranged in opposite pairs on the square stems, the latter with tufts of purplish hairs along the nodes. The ovate to elliptical leaves are fairly large 75 - 190 x 35 - 115 mm bearing a wedge shaped base and acute apex.

In the garden P. ecklonii is an attractive and popular garden subject. Mass planting of the blue, white and pink cultivars are very striking. P. ecklonii is best grown in partial shade. It is recommended for gardens where frost is not too severe. In colder climates it can be grown as a container house plant indoors. P. ecklonii is a fast growing pioneer shrub and very suited for shady gardens. It will flower profusely the first season after planting. Plant about 60 cm apart. Prune back hard after flowering during midwinter.

There are three available cultivars: ‘Medley-Wood’ the common garden cultivar with blue flowers; ‘Tommy’, with white flowers; and ‘Erma’, with pink flowers.

Plectranthus verticillatus (Common names: gossip spurflower, money plant)

Plectranthus verticillatus is a perennial semi-succulent ground cover native to woodland and forest margins in southeast Africa. It has long been a popular garden subject in many parts of the world, both for its attractive foliage as well as for its delicate white to pale mauve flowers.

The popular “Swedish Ivy” pot and basket hanging plectranthus is not P. verticillatus, as it is sometimes referred to in the USA, but P. oertendahlii from the forested coastal river gorges of KwaZulu-Natal. The latter is characterised by variegated leaves with silvery markings.

White, pale mauve, or pale pink flowers appear sporadically throughout the year in gardens but more abundantly in spring and late autumn.

P. verticillatus is a nursery favourite in warmer areas of the world. A number of commercial cultivars, including several variegated forms, have been developed here and overseas — ‘Barberton’, ‘Blyde’, ‘Eureka’, ‘Freckles’, ‘Gossip’, ‘Malelaan’, ‘Money Maker’, ‘Pink Surprise’, and ‘Ubombo’.

Plectranthus ‘Mona Lavender’ (Common names spurflower, Mona Lavender)

Plectranthus ‘Mona Lavender’ is a hybrid developed at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens that is becoming a hit around the world!  P. ‘Mona Lavender’ is a quick-growing, herbaceous, perennial shrub reaching up to 75 cm in height, forming a lovely, rounded, dense bush.

It has dark green, glossy leaves with intensely purple undersides and sprays of lavender flowers dashed with purple markings.

It flowers very unpredictably, but does well in shortened daylight, which starts in autumn, but depending on how old the plant is and how much it has been pinched back, flowering can be extended right into early summer.

The plant is being very effectively commercialized by the Ball Horticultural Company based near Chicago in the USA.

‘Mona Lavender’ is a pleasure for any gardener as it is relatively adaptable and trouble free. It does very well in either shaded or partly sunny positions. When it receives sun it tends to stay smaller and more compact and the leaves exhibit a much more intense colouring - especially on the purple undersides of the leaf.

The plants enjoy being pinched back to induce better branching and compactness. They make a great bedding plant and look good when they are planted en masse or as individuals in an existing bedding display. They also make good pot plants which can be moved around as needed and will fill a 25cm pot in a matter of months.

They enjoy feeding too, which should be carried out at any time but preferably not before or during flowering. The fertilizer may consist of a general all-purpose 2-3-2 as a granular or liquid feed - be sure to water it in well as it is easy to burn the tender roots, or use a purely organic fertilizer to avoid this.

One of the only downfalls of ‘Mona Lavender’ is that, like most Plectranthus, it doesn’t tolerate very cold conditions, although it has been known to survive light frosts. If you live in an area prone to winter frosts then plant it in spring and it will flower in the autumn before the winter frosts take their toll. For all parts that don’t receive heavy frosts, it can be planted at any time of the year.

Plectranthus zuluensis (Common name: Zulu spurflower)

This is a handsome, softly erect shrub with velvet textured leaves and striking dark purple flowers which make Plectranthus zuluensis a winner for those difficult shady areas in summer rainfall gardens.

P. zuluensis is an erect or sprawling, soft shrub up to 2m high, with much-branched, four-angled, hairy stems which are velvety to the touch when young. Soft, semi-succulent leaves are ovate with coarsely toothed margins and covered with tiny, colourless glands.

In its natural environment the species is often common along stream banks and deep river gorges in humus-rich soil and in shady or semi-shady areas on the margins of semi-coastal, subtropical forests. It is best suited to gardens in warmer, frost-free areas.

All aloes are easy to grow, and their architectural qualities make them excellent candidates for container gardening.

What makes aloes suddenly so trendy? Clearly their water-wise nature is one attraction. But their sudden popularity is mostly due to two characteristics: their striking architectural shape and/or their textural foliage. Both of these qualities are extremely important in the creation of a contemporary container garden, whether for indoor or exterior use.

The genus Aloe includes hundreds of kinds of succulent with thick, tapering leaves that are generally arranged in rosette form. The leaves of some are free of protective spines, while others are fiercely armed with both spines and hooked teeth. Some aloes are stemless; some have stems permanently clothed with leaves; some have stems that become bare as they lose their leaves; and some of the forms with clothed stems topple over after they have grown a foot or more and continue to grow down the side of the pot. A number of them are suitable for the home only when young because they eventually grow too tall, but there are also many dwarf‑growing kinds. Blooms, which appear from leaf axils at any time from late winter to early summer, normally consist of a spike of tubular orange or red flowers that are about 3.5cm long. All aloes are easy to grow.

SOME RECOMMENDED ALOES

A. arborescens (candelabra aloe, candelabra plant, octopus plant, or torch plant) can grow to 5m tall; only young plants are suitable for use indoors. The narrow, tooth‑edged leaves, which are 15-20cm long and 2cm wide, form a loose rosette on the end of a bare woody stem. Offsets normally appear around the base when plants are two to three years old. Red flowers may be produced at the top of a long branched stem.

A. aristata (lace aloe) is stemless, with fleshy, dark gray‑green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm long and 2cm wide, spotted with tubercles, and has hard white edges. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm stalk in early summer, last only a few days. Mature plants produce many offsets.

A. barbadensis (also called A. vera) is commonly known as a medicinal plant because its juices are excellent for healing burns. The plant forms a stemless clump of dagger‑shaped leaves 20-60cm long and 5-8cm wide. Leaves are gray‑green, faintly spotted with white, and edged with soft teeth in shades of pink or red. A stalk up to 1m long carries tubular, 25mm long, yellow flowers. Offsets are produced from stolons just below the surface.

A. brevifolia (short‑leaved aloe) has 7.5-10cm long and 2.5‑5cm wide pale green leaves edged with prickly teeth arranged around a stem that eventually elongates and topples over. Flowers are pale pink on a stalk that can be up to 30cm long. Offsets are produced from the lower leaf axils.

A. ferox (Cape aloe) is of value as a house plant only when relatively young, while its bronze‑green leaves are still of manageable size. The leaves are up to 1m long and 15cm wide, broad, fleshy, and cupped. They have warty undersides and edges covered with brown spines, and they grow in two opposite ranks when young. Mature plants bear 90cm-1.2m high racemes of red flowers. Offsets are not usually produced until the plant has grown too big for use indoors.

A. variegata (kanniedood aloe, partridge‑breasted aloe, pheasant’s­ wings, or tiger aloe) is the most popular dwarf species. It has stems clothed with pointed triangular leaves 10‑15cm long and 2.5-3cm wide which are at first arranged in three erect ranks then gradually spiral as the plant matures. They are dark gray-green in colour, with pronounced markings or irregularly shaped transverse white bands. Plants rarely exceed 30cm in height but often begin to flower when only 15cm high. Coral pink flowers (seldom more than ten) appear on a 30cm stalk in late winter. These plants rarely shed leaves, and the stems eventually topple over with increasing weight. Some produce offsets at an early age, others not until they are mature.

PROPER CARE

Light Bright light suits all aloes. Those with spiny leaves usually do well in full sunlight, but the softer leaved kinds such as A. variegata do best if sunlight reaches them indirectly — for instance, if it is filtered through a translucent blind or curtain. No aloe will thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.

Temperature Aloes grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, give them a short winter rest at no more than 10^oC.

Watering During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette of such types as A. variegata.

Feeding Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.

Potting and repotting Use a soil-based potting mixture. Most aloes should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top-dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that plants with thick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand or perlite over the surface of the mixture prevents rot at points where fleshy leaves of stemless aloes touch the soil.

Propagation Offsets can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation. Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Plants that have a rosette of leaves on a long stem are likely to produce additional small rosettes low down on the stem, and these root more easily than those produced higher up. Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand or perlite is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should have bright light without direct sunlight and should be watered sparingly, only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two‑thirds of the mixture to dry out between waterings.

Special points Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs can be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage, and the latter bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.

Dazzling, though somewhat bizarre-looking plants, there is, nevertheless, something special about them.

Among the most beautiful cultivated ornamental bulbs, the southern African natives, Haemanthus and Scadoxus may be perceived as brilliant, brazen blood lilies or demure, soft, powderpuffs — in either guise they can surprise and delight you. They have a wide distribution from lowland to mountain forest, forest margins or open grassland and are very common in the shade of trees along river banks.

Scadoxus used to be included in the genus Haemanthus, but is now regarded as distinct and separate. Some common names for these bulbs include Blood lily, African Blood lily, Torch lily, Paintbrush lily, Football lily, Powderpuff lily, Poison root, Snake lily and Fireball lily.

The genus Haemanthus (African blood lily) consists of bulbous plants with showy flowers. Some species are deciduous and must be rested almost dry for two or three months; others have brief rest periods but retain their leaves. The bulbs of some species produce offsets. Flowers of all species are short‑lived; flower size and coloring differ considerably.

This is a very useful plant for shady gardens, a handsome pot subject for a large container on a shady deck or patio, and as an indoor plant. It looks particularly effective in large groups under trees, where they do not seem to mind competition from tree roots, provided the soil is good.

In colder climates they can be grow outdoors in pots, or planted in the ground after the danger of frost has passed in your area. Pots should be moved indoors, or bulbs must be dug up before winter, and stored indoors. They are hardy only to USDA Zone 8.

RECOMMENDED HAEMANTHUSES

H. albiflos (Paintbrush lily) is not deciduous. It has­ fleshy, rounded‑oblong leaves 22cm ‑ 30cm long and 10cm wide, which are dull‑surfaced, dark green, and bordered with fine, white hairs. Each bulb usually has four stalkless leaves arranged in arching pairs. Every spring a new pair is produced from the “crease” between the upper pair of leaves. Soon afterward the lower pair dry up, when they can be pulled away. A single, cup‑shaped head composed of many flowers appears in late summer or early fall on a 22cm long, 25mm thick, green stalk. The 30cm wide flower head consists of 8 to 10 petal-like, 25mm long bracts enclosing dozens of 25mm long stamens. The bracts are white marked with fine green lines, and the stamens are white tipped with yellow. When the plant is several years old, it produces offsets.

H. coccineus (African blood lily) has stalkless, fleshy, strap‑shaped, dark green leaves up to 60cm long and 15cm wide. There are usually two per bulb, and they develop fully after the bulb has flowered. They remain through winter and spring, dying down in early summer. After a short rest period a green, red‑spotted flower stalk begins to rise from the leafless bulb. By early autumn the 25cm – 30cm long, 25mm thick stalk carries a 6cm wide, cup‑shaped flower head composed of six or eight bracts 4cm – 5cm long surrounding 4cm‑long stamens.

Bracts are blood red, stamens orange-red tipped with yellow. Offsets are not produced.

H. deformis is normally found deep in forests up against cliff faces. The leaves lie flat upon the ground and can reach 30cm x 15cm in size. The huge white flower head is held upon a short stem. Like its cousin albiflos, deformis needs cool, shady spots for maximum growth.

H. humulis can take medium frost and thrives in partially shaded stony areas. It produces light to dark pink flowers on a 30cm stem. The leaves are semi erect and can reach 30cm in length by 15cm in width. Sandy soil with compost added is best and fair watering during spring and summer is advised.

SCADOXUS

Scadoxus was long regarded as a subgenus of Haemanthus, but because there are differences in the number of chromosomes, the foliage, and the rootstock, it is now treated as a distinct genus. The rootstock is predominately an elongated rhizome, sometime with a bulbous part above. Leaves are dry or green at flowering. Many have a sheath that forms a false stem. Most species favor semi-shade and can be grown from seed without a lot of trouble.

The beautiful flowers are followed by attractive red berries which are eaten by birds (and, in their native environment, monkeys). This is an excellent plant for the ‘bird-garden’ and the nectar-rich flowers attract weavers, sunbirds and insects including butterflies.

RECOMMENDED SCADOXIS

Scadoxus multiflorus ssp katharinae (Fireball lily) produces stems up to 60cm tall, which carry 22cm – 30cm long, 10cm – to 15cm wide, lance‑shaped leaves with 25mm long stalks. The leaves, usually kept throughout the year, are undulate and medium green with pale green veins. In summer a green flower stalk (often spotted with red at the base) rises from the bulb. The stalk carries a globe‑shaped, salmon red flower head 15cm to 22cm across, which consists of tubular flowers, each up to 5cm long. 25mm long stamens jut out from the tips of the tubes. Offsets are not produced.

S. puniceus, is the famed Snake Lily of Africa. Legend has it that snakes are attracted to the spotted tunic of the leaf bases, but it is just that, an unfounded legend based upon the colouring of the bulb. However the strongly scented flowers are a no no for sufferers of Hay Fever. Still interested? Then this wonderful bright orange ball of flowers is just for your pot or semi protected garden. It can take light frost and flowers in early spring. The flowers stand up to 50cm in height and are produced before the leaves emerge from their winter sleep.

S. multiflorus has three or four pointed‑oval leaves about 25cm long and 12cm wide. These are arranged on 25mm long stalks around a 15cm – 22cm long stem. The stem and leaves appear in early spring and are shed in autumn. The flower head on its 30cm long stalk is generally bright red, appears in late spring, and is less than 15cm in diameter. Offsets are not produced by these bulbs.

S. membranaceus is one of the smaller Scadoxus species producing a large, cup shaped, olive green calyx holding up to 20 fat bright red berries for up to 3 months, making this an exceptionally attractive pot plant or garden feature. Grows best in deep shade with minimal watering, making it an ideal pot plant! A top dressing of slow release organic fertiliser in early summer produces lush growth and flowers.

PROPER CARE

Haemanthus are best grown in a rockery or as container plants, in full sun or partial shade. They can be propagated from seed, bulb cuttings and offsets. H. albiflos, an evergreen plant suited to shady conditions, is probably the most widely cultivated species. This species and the closely related H. pauculifolius , multiply most readily from offsets and eventually form dense plantings. Whereas H. albiflos and H. humilis may flower in their third or fourth year, some of the Cape species are extremely slow growing. For instance, H. nortieri can take almost 17 years to mature. Haemanthus are not suited to extremely cold places and will perish in severe frost.

Scadoxus is a very useful plant for shady gardens, a handsome pot subject for a large container on a shady stoep, and it is recommended as an indoor plant. It looks particularly effective in large groups under trees, where they do not seem to mind competition from tree roots, provided the soil is good.

Seed should be sown as soon as it is ripe. This does not necessarily mean that the berries must be removed the minute they turn red. If they are not under threat from birds, or curious children, they can be left on without harming the seed until they start to look a bit wrinkled, which should be around early spring. Clean the pulp off, with care as the seed underneath is soft and fleshy. The best is to rub or peel it off. Use a well-drained, light potting mix, press the seed gently into the soil, do not cover it but leave the tops just visible or level with the soil surface. Keep damp but not waterlogged. Flowers can be expected from the third season onwards.

Offsets should be removed after flowering i.e. in autumn, and replanted immediately.

Light Provide bright light, with some direct sunlight every day. Light is not important during dormancy.

Temperature Room temperature is suitable. Avoid temperatures below 12^oC, even in dormancy.

Watering Water moderately, allowing the top 12mm of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. When the leaves of a deciduous Haemanthus begin to yellow, gradually reduce the amount, and give dormant bulbs only enough to keep the mixture from becoming completely dry. During the winter water species that retain their leaves only enough to keep the mixture from drying out.

Feeding Apply a high‑potash liquid fertilizer to actively growing plants every two weeks.

Potting and repotting Use a soil-based potting mixture. When planting bulbs, choose pots that allow 25mm of space between the bulb and the rim. Move a Haemanthus into a larger pot only when its roots appear on the surface of the mixture or the bulb edges approach the edge of the pot. Otherwise, top-dress it in early spring.

Propagation When H. albiflos has produced a group of bulbs, the group may be divided in early spring just as the parent plant starts into new growth. Plant bulbs separately, half burying them in the potting mixture. Water each newly potted bulb sparingly for four or five weeks, and do not feed it until the plant is well established. Otherwise, treat the bulb as a mature plant. Haemanthuses that do not produce offsets can be propagated only from seed.

Pests Watch out for the Amaryllis lily borer which can severely damage the whole plant. Slugs and snails can damage the foliage.

WARNING

The bulbs contain alkaloids and are poisonous if eaten, causing only low toxicity. Symptoms include salivation, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhoea.

The flowers of bromeliads, which can bloom at almost any time of year, are usually striking and brilliantly coloured.

What is the phenomenon of allure and captivation bromeliads exert over people? Maybe it is just the whole fascinating gamut of the bromeliad family. But be warned, the bug will get you — once you take one home, they are addictive.

Bromeliads are mainly tropical, rosette‑forming plants that differ from most other flowering plants in that they absorb their food and moisture largely through leaves rather than roots.

Bromeliads (airplants) are members of the family Bromeliaceae. These tropical or subtropical plants vary widely in shape and size. Even species of a single genus often differ drastically in appearance. Most bromeliads cultivated as house plants, however, are alike in being stemless, with strap‑shaped, leathery, arching leaves arranged in a rosette, and with a central flower spike on a relatively long stalk.

The rosette may be just a loose open circle of leaves, or it may be more tube-like. In many bromeliads the leaves sheathe one another to form a cuplike, watertight vessel. In the wild, rainwater and dew collect in the cup, and the plants draw their water and food needs from this reservoir during dry periods. Bromeliads are unique among plants in that they need to have water around the growing point (situated at the centre of the rosette). Water lodging permanently in the heart of any other non‑aquatic plant would eventually kill it.

The majority of bromeliads grown as house plants are epiphytic, living on the trunks and branches of trees. Some attach themselves to rocks. The rest grow in the ground as most plants do. Within the same genus there are sometimes tree‑dwelling, ground-dwelling, and rock‑dwelling species. In fact, epiphytic and terrestrial bromeliads can often thrive equally well if forced to switch places and life styles. It is this ability, in particular, that allows some epiphytic kinds to be grown in pots like most other plants.

Practically all these plants have leaves capable of absorbing airborne plant food in addition to any that may be taken in through the roots. Even the minute scales that cover the leaves of some types are themselves able to take in food materials and moisture. In fact, many bromeliads have entirely ceased to rely on roots for their nourishment. Such plants now either produce no roots or use the few that they do produce as anchorage rather than for feeding.

The flowers of bromeliads, which can bloom at almost any time of year, are usually striking and brilliantly coloured, and they are often partly encased in highly decorative, usually bright red or pink bracts. In some bromeliads the blooms rise barely above the average level of water stored in the cup of the rosette. Individual flowers are rarely bigger than 30cm across, and they appear in succession on a broad, stalkless flower head. The leaves, or portions of leaves, at the rosette centre often become bright‑coloured (usually red or purple) just before and during the flowering period. The brilliant colouring is nature’s way of attracting pollinating insects and birds to the flowers.

Other bromeliads have a different type of floral arrangement consisting of a long, erect and sturdy flower spike that pushes up from the rosette centre.

The spike is topped by a bold, usually brightly coloured flower head bearing flowers that are normally only 25mm across but surrounded by brightly coloured bracts. The leaves do not change their colour during the flowering period.

Flowers of all bromeliads tend to be short‑lived. The bracts of the long-stalked kinds and the striking leaf colouration of the others remain attractive for several weeks, however. Moreover, flowers of some kinds are followed by colourful berries. These normally remain attractive for several months before they shrivel and fall off.

As a rule, each rosette of leaves flowers only once and then slowly dies. The only exceptions among the bromeliads grown as house plants are the dyckias, the rosettes of which continue to grow. In all others the rosette remains attractive for several months before it finally yellows and dries up. Well before this time, however, offsets will have replaced the dying rosette.

Bromeliads flower only when they are mature. It may take as long as 20 years for some kinds to reach maturity. The most popular indoor bromeliads generally flower relatively early, when they are no more than two or three years old.

EPIPHYTIC BROMELIADS

As each young epiphytic bromeliad grows it sends down wiry roots over the surface of the tree, clinging to the bark. The plant lives and grows not only by absorbing water and food from the atmosphere, but also by taking nourishment from any detritus (fallen leaves and other debris) that accumulates between the leaves. The roots of these bromeliads are used for support only.

Epiphytic bromeliads that grow on the lower parts of tree trunks in the wild tend to have soft and pliable leaves. Leaves of species that naturally grow closer to the tops of trees are likely to be harder and more leathery. The difference comes from the degrees of light and shade at different heights within the forest, and this helps to indicate the indoor lighting preferences of plants. Soft, thin‑leaved bromeliads generally do best in bright filtered light, which suggests subdued or dappled light. Brighter light, including some direct sunlight, is better for plants with more leathery leaves.

NON‑EPIPHYTIC BROMELIADS

The bromeliads that grow on the ground or in rock fissures normally live in open, warm, sunny places. Because they grow in exposed positions and are prey to grazing animals, many of them are armed with sharp spines and hooked teeth on the leaf edges. In this respect they resemble cacti and some succulents.

The rosettes are usually far more open and much less capable of storing water than are the rosettes of the epiphytes. Some (certain of the cryptanthuses, for example) have only five or six pointed leaves, which grow in a star shape against the ground. Some do not even have their leaves arranged in rosette shape. Most, though, are quite easily recognizable as bromeliads.

The best‑known non‑epiphytic bromeliad is the edible pineapple (Ananas comosus). It is also the only one grown as a commercial crop.

PROPER CARE

Light As was emphasized above, epiphytic bromeliads need either bright filtered light without direct sunlight or bright light with several hours a day of direct sunlight, depending on the texture of their leaves (future posts that profile individual bromeliads will provide specific recommendations). Terrestrial and rock‑dwelling types generally require the brightest possible light to bring out the best leaf colouration and encourage flowering.

When light intensity is low or day length very short, bromeliads will usually stop growing and take a rest. However, they do not appear to grow as quickly during the long days of intense summer light as they do in spring and fall. There is no cause for concern about fight, therefore, if a plant takes a brief summer rest.

Temperature Normally warm room temperatures are suitable for all bromeliads throughout the year. The thinner‑leaved species in particular will die if exposed to temperatures below about 12^oC. Even the few kinds (such as some billbergias) that can tolerate lower winter temperatures, will not react well to a prolonged period below 12^oC. Some leaf damage is inevitable after more than a few days of such temperatures.

Along with a fairly constant level of warmth, nearly all of these plants require high humidity when actively growing. Stand pots on trays of moist pebbles. In addition, whenever room temperatures remain above 20^oC for more than a day or two, mist‑spray.

Watering In those bromeliads with a central water‑retaining cup, it is essential to keep the cup full of water at all times. To prevent the water in this reservoir from becoming stale, turn the plant upside down once a month, let the old water drain out, and refill the cup. Apart from this process, water the potting mixture for most types of bromeliad moderately, allowing the top 10mm of the mixture to dry out before watering again. During the brief rest period that some plants may take at some time in winter, give such bromeliads only enough water to keep the potting mixture from drying out completely.

In areas where the water is hard, use rainwater as much as possible. Hard water leaves unsightly lime deposits on the foliage. An alternative to rainwater is the melt water that is produced by a defrosting refrigerator. Do not use this soft water while it is still ice‑cold, though. Leave it out in a warm room for 24 hours before applying it to plants.

Feeding Apply fertiliser to actively growing bromeliads according to the specific recommendations which will be included in the plant profiles that will be added to this site. Liquid fertiliser can be poured into either the potting mixture or the cuplike centres of rosettes, or it may be splashed over the leaves. Bromeliads grown in potting mixtures that contain a high proportion of peat moss need to be given some extra nourishment at regular intervals throughout the year. Bromeliads grown in a mixture that is largely soil based should not be fed during any winter rest period that they may take. It is always better to give too little rather than too much of any type of fertiliser to bromeliads

Pests and Diseases Scale is the major pest. A spray with a non-oily scale spray (can cause leaf discolouration in some plants) a couple of times a year will help keep them clean. Never use copper based sprays or white oil or any oil based sprays, as they will kill the bromeliad . Keep the plants clean by pulling the old leaves off the base with a sideways action and this helps keep pests away. In very hot areas during hot humid weather, sometimes the water in the centre of the bromeliad can virtually cook it, the centre of the plant will turn red/pink and if you pull on the leaves the centre will fall out. A fungus causes this and during very hot times they need to be hosed late each day to prevent fungal attacks, however this is very isolated . A spray with Diazanon (Mancozeb) fungicide will prevent and cure the problem if seen early.

A post on propagating and potting bromeliads will follow shortly. A series of Bromeliad plant profiles will be posted over time so visit this site regularly.

Basil, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, and thyme are essential ingredients that are easy to grow.

Herbes de Provence, or Provençal herbs, is a traditional blend of aromatic herbs that flourish in hills of southern France during the hot summer months. Used by the handful when fresh, Herbes de Provence is also good using dried herbs. It is easy to grow and blend your own.

Basil, oregano, rosemary, sage, summer savory, and thyme are the herbs most typically used.  Bay leaf, fennel, chervil, tarragon, mint, and marjoram are sometimes added. Orange zest is sometimes included as is lavender, though the lavender is less traditional and was added more for the benefit of tourists who saw lavender fields as almost emblematic of the Provençe region. Traditional or not, the addition of lavender to the blend is a good one.

Herbes de Provence is an excellent addition to any dish from the Mediterranean region and is especially good mixed with olive oil to coat chicken, fish, tomatoes or chunks of potato for roasting, adding to a pizza sauce or sprinkled over game or kebabs before roasting. It’s also used for seasoning salads, sauces and cheeses, as well as soups and stews. Try rubbing the blend on whole turkey or the breast before roasting. Rub beef, lamb or veal with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, then press the herb blend into the meat. Sear the meat in a very hot skillet on both sides, then remove and finish roasting in a 180°C oven until cooked to your preference. When grilling add a pinch or two of Herbes de Provence to the coals when they are hot.

Herbes de Provence is often sold in traditional terracotta jars which make both a charming gift and an effective storage container.

GROWING HERBES DE PROVENCE

All of the herbs in this blend thrive in Provence’s Mediterranean climate, but they can be easily grown in less temperate regions.

SOIL CONDITIONS

Because nearly all the herbs are prone to root rot (Phytophthora species), they prefer rocky, sandy, or gravelly soil for good drainage. Like most Mediterranean herbs, they tolerate drought well. For sage, lavender, and oregano, a sandy soil actually enhances the amount of volatile oils in the foliage, making the herbs’ flavours more pungent. Basil is the only plant in the mixture that prefers ample moisture and a fertile soil.

Most gardeners prefer to buy seedlings of the perennial and shrubby forms of these plants at their local nurseries. Buy the smallest plants available, because their roots are less likely to be mangled by the container. It’s safer to plant after the danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed.  In humid climates, judicious pruning of the foliage of woody-stemmed herbs to a more open form will increase air circulation and help plants prosper.

HARVESTING, DRYING, AND STORING

For all except lavender, harvest leafy sprigs throughout the summer, then dry and store them in a cool, dark place. After they dry, strip the leaves from the twigs and store the dried herbs in dark jars in a cool place.

Begin harvesting before noon on a sunny, dry day. Clip sprigs that are free of dew or water. Harvest lavender flowers and flower stems only, without leaves (strip any leaves that might hang on to the 30- to 45 cm flower stems). Dry lavender flowers and other herbs on screen trays or by hanging small bundles in a dark, dry place with good air circulation. If ventilation is a problem, run an oscillating fan at low speed nearby. Keep the location completely dark, because even fluorescent bulbs will fade lavender’s flowers. Store each herb separately. To use, combine leaves and flowers only in small batches.

THE HERBS DESCRIBED

ENGLISH LAVENDER ( Lavandula angustifolia, also sold as L. officinalis, L. angustifolius, and L. vera)

Recommended: ‘Alba’, ‘Hidcote’, ‘Jean Davis’ (pale pink flowers), and ‘Munstead’. ‘Nana Alba’ is a short white variety.

Sun: Full sun is best, but plants will tolerate 4 hours of indirect light.

Description: This small, mounding shrub reaches 60- to 90cm tall and wide. Its narrow, lance-shaped leaves are up to 8cm long, and range from a pale olive green to blue-green. The flower heads usually extend 7cm or more along the stems. The tiny corollas (true flowers) may be mauve, blue-violet, violet shading to light blue, pale purple, bluish mauve, modest purple or rich violet; some varieties are white or pale pink. English lavender has the sweetest smell and flavour of all lavenders. It’s also a proven insecticide for aphids and repels cockroaches.

BASIL (Ocimum basilicum)

Recommended varieties: ‘Lettuce Leaf’ has 10cm crinkled leaves with smooth edges. ‘Opal’ and ‘Purple Ruffles’ have rich burgundy or purple foliage. Basil flavours also include lemon, cinnamon, and anise.

Sun: Prefers full sun.

Description: Plants come in many sizes, up to 60cm tall and wide. Leaves range from light to dark green, as well as purple and mottled green-purple. Pale white flowers bloom on long stems. Protect seedlings from slugs, snails, and earwigs. Prune or harvest regularly to extend the foliage season and delay flowering.

For more about growing basil see http://tinyurl.com/y9vbfm3

OREGANO (Origanum vulgare hirtum)

Recommended varieties: This subspecies of common oregano is the only “true” oregano, according to Arthur O. Tucker of the University of Delaware’s Department of Agriculture and Natural Resources. This same plant is sometimes sold as (O. heracleoticum).

Sun: Full sun.

Description: Oregano grows to 60cm tall and wider, and spreads by underground stems. Its oval leaves are soft and slightly gray-green. Flower stalks, pale pink with purplish overtones, rise above the foliage.

For more about growing oregano see http://tinyurl.com/34lbmna

ROSEMARY (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Recommended varieties: ‘Arp’, ‘Blue Boy’, ‘Collingwood Ingram’, ‘Golden Rain’, ‘Ken Taylor’, ‘Majorca Pink’, ‘Prostratus’, and ‘Tuscan Blue’.

Sun: Full sun, but tolerates up to two-thirds of the day in shade.

Description: Short, stiff, needle-like foliage is usually dark green but sometimes a rich chartreuse. The most rigid, upright forms, which have the best flavour, reach 2m. Low, prostrate shrubs stay below 45- to 60cm tall, with gracefully arching, rambling limbs. Rosemary blossoms run the spectrum from pale speckled blue to royal cobalt. Some flowers are pure white; others are various shades of pink or blue. Very well adapted to pots, window boxes, tubs, and troughs. Can be pruned as topiary or into a Christmas tree shape. Relatively pest-free.

COMMON SAGE (Salvia officinalis)

Recommended varieties: ‘Aurea’ (’Golden Sage’) is a variegated form with pale lime green, chartreuse-yellow, and darker sage green markings. ‘Purpurascens’, also sold as ‘Purpurea’, has leaves of a deep, smoky purple. ‘Tricolor’ is a variegated mixture of sage green, creamy white, and purple. All of these taste more resinous and slightly more acrid than common sage.

Sun: Prefers full sun but tolerates a small amount of shade.

Description: Compact growth 45- to 60cm tall and slightly wider. The 15- to 30cm flower stalks with soft violet-blue flowers create a delightful pastel haze floating above the foliage. S. triloba has shorter, wider leaves with two noticeable small lobes at the base of the larger main leaf (hence the name triloba). A member of the mint family and a relative of lavender.

For more about growing sage see http://tinyurl.com/2uyqhg8

SUMMER SAVORY (Satureja hortensis)

Recommended varieties: For Herbes de Provence, summer savory is preferred over winter savory, S. montana, which has a slightly coarser flavour.

Sun: Full sun.

Description: The 30- to 45cm plants have gray-green foliage and pale lilac or lavender blossoms on long, lavender-tinted stems.

Remarkable for its long period of summer bloom.

COMMON THYME (Thymus vulgaris)

Recommended varieties: Besides common thyme, try wonderfully scented lemon thyme (T. citriodorus) and its delightfully variegated form, ‘Aureus’; caraway-scented thyme (T. herba-barona); and very flavourful wild thyme (T. drucei, also known as T. praecox arcticus and T. serpyllum).

Sun: Full sun.

Description: The well-behaved, verdant foliage is composed of tiny, delicate leaves on stems up to a foot high. Clouds of misty mauve flowers float several cm above the leaves.

Relatively pest and disease free. The stems will readily root into a thin layer of compost. Also well adapted to containers.

BLENDING YOUR OWN HERBES DE PROVENCE

There is no one set mixture, just as there is no one fixed recipe for B-B-Q sauce or Garam Masala. However Herbes de Provence traditionally contains the herbs described above: basil, bay leaf, marjoram, rosemary, summer savory and thyme, with thyme at the forefront. Today Lavender is often included in the mix, although a little goes a long way. Bay leaf is also sometimes included. Most cooks adjust the proportions according to their own tastes, but here is a sample recipe —

2 Tablespoons dried basil

1 Tablespoon dried marjoram

½ Tablespoon dried rosemary

1 Tablespoon dried summer savory

2 Tablespoon dried thyme

2 teaspoon lavender flowers

1 bay leaf

There is an almost limitless choice of plants for indoor use. What the individual gardener selects must be partly governed, of course, by the conditions he or she can provide. But since most plants are surprisingly adaptable, there remains a large choice for almost any type of environment.

There are no rules for the kinds of plant that can be used to decorate a home.

There are no rules for the kinds of plant that can be used to decorate a home. The selection is largely a matter of personal taste, but certain guidelines can prove useful. First of all, it is obviously sensible to select plants that suit normal home conditions rather than try to make either the plants or the home satisfy difficult requirements. To a certain degree, every house plant needs daily attention. If you spend too much time and effort on nursing frail specimens, routine care becomes a burden instead of the pleasure it can be. As a first step, then, assess your home environment, and choose plants to suit it. There is no need to turn every room into an indoor jungle. On the other hand, there are few rooms that will not benefit from the presence of a plant as long as it enhances or purposefully contrasts with the rest of the furnishings.

Scale and proportion also play an important role. Here, too, there can be no firm rules. For instance, although big plants are not generally recommended for small rooms, an attractive large plant can be used to round off a sharp angle or an awkward corner or to conceal ugly permanent fixtures. In general, though, large plants or massive displays on different levels belong in spacious areas, where a small specimen might look puny and lost. In a big, high‑ceilinged room tall climbers and baskets of spreading, trailing plants help to tie the dimensions together. In a small room such vigorous plants can seem merely fussy and crowded.

The colour scheme and type of furnishings should certainly be considered when you are choosing plants for a given position. A dark wall can make a poor background for richly colored or plain green foliage. But the darkness of the wall may well set off to dramatic effect the delicate tracery of pale green ferns or the sharply defined outline of a sansevieria. Light‑colored walls — which, incidentally, benefit plants by reflecting light — are natural backdrops for almost any kind of plant, whether green, variegated, highly coloured, or flowering. Concealed spotlights can add further emphasis at night to such sculptured plants as palms, cordylines, and large‑leaved fig trees. Busily patterned and embossed wallpapers or chairs and sofas covered with richly designed fabric can be given a calming touch by a nearly plain‑leaved plant, such as a Schefflera actinophylla or an Asplenium nidus.

One important consideration for some plants is the height and structure of the objects on which they are displayed. Table tops are ideal situations for small and medium‑size group arrangements. Shelves and ledges provide perfect spots for single specimens placed at or below eye level. Above this height it is preferable to use plants that cascade over the edges of pots or baskets. judiciously chosen ornamental containers can improve the decorative effect. If too ornamental, however, they are likely to weaken the impact of the plants themselves, especially in group displays.

The final selection must inevitably be a matter of personal judgment along with due consideration of plant needs. Move a plant or group of plants around until it appears to create a natural harmony or satisfying contrast with its surroundings. Try out the effects of plants in conjunction with mirrors and other hangings, with ornaments of metal, pottery, glass, and china, and with various lighting arrangements. Note changes in impact between day and evening hours. Often you will find the right plant for the right situation only after several experiments.

This is an introduction to a new Houseplants section on http://gardeningisezee.com to which I will be adding numerous profiles of plants that can be used to enhance the beauty of your home. Enjoy!

Seemingly infinite variety characterises the genus Begonia.

Seemingly infinite variety characterises the genus Begonia. They can brighten up both your indoor and outdoor gardens. Probably the most prized though not the most widely grown are tuberous begonias, whose name belies their fulsome displays of mid- to late-summer bloom. The flowers often resemble roses or carnations, and they rarely disappoint growers.

The genus Begonia includes more than 2,000 species and hybrids, and they are as varied in appearance and habit as these numbers suggest. Some are valued mainly for flowers, some for decorative leaves, some for both leaves and flowers. Begonias range in size from tiny, ground‑hugging creepers to stout‑stemmed specimens 3m tall. Yet they all share a number of characteristics. Almost all forms have asymmetrical leaves; the leaves always grow alternately along the stems; and new leaves emerge from stipules (leaflike sheaths). And many begonias do not require continuous direct sunlight, a fact that makes them particularly suitable for indoor use.

Most kinds bear flowers in clusters on short stalks arising from or near leaf axils. There are separate male and female flowers on the same plant, however, each cluster normally composed of either all male or all female blooms. Male flowers tend to be the more eye‑catching, partly because their petals are often of different shapes and sizes, whereas the petals of a female flower are more nearly alike. A distinctive feature of the female flower is the seed-bearing ovary, which looks like a three‑lobed appendage immediately behind the petals. Female flowers, although they may slightly fade, usually last for weeks or even months, but the male flowers tend to drop off within two or three days of opening.

Because the genus is so large, it is generally divided into groups based on the differing storage organs or root structures of these plants. Some have fibrous roots (as most plants do). A second group consists of species in which roots grow down from a thick creeping rhizome. A third group includes tuberous species that have a fleshy, swollen storage organ at the base of the stem. In these pages fibrous‑rooted and rhizomatous begonias are discussed together because their growth cycles and cultivation needs are similar — and are very different from those of the tuberous kinds.

FIBROUS-ROOTED AND RHIZOMATOUS BEGONIAS

There are, roughly, three different kinds of fibrous‑rooted begonia. Many species have smooth, rather woody stems marked here and there by swollen, knotted joints (nodes) a bit like the stems of bamboo. These plants usually have leaves like angel’s wings‑lobed near the top and acutely asymmetrical. A second kind of fibrous‑rooted begonia has fleshy stems, and many parts of the plant especially leaves and flowers‑are covered with hairs. These plants (commonly known as hirsute begonias) are usually bushy, like those with bamboo-like stems, although they will sometimes trail if left unsupported. So they are often grown in hanging baskets. Finally, there are the fleshy‑stemmed wax begonias, whose crisp leaves are waxy, not hairy.

Most fibrous‑rooted begonias flower profusely, and are grown both for their flowers and their decorative foliage. The flowers vary in size and colour, but most have only a single layer of petals.

The rhizomatous begonias often have a thick, fleshy rhizome, which crawls over the surface of the potting mixture, sending down roots at intervals. The plants of most species grow less than 23cm tall. The few that grow taller often need supporting with thin stakes. Many of these plants are without conventional, erect stems, but a few have much‑branching, fleshy stems. Rhizomatous begonias are prized for their foliage. Leaves may be nearly circular, roughly star‑shaped, or heart‑shaped. Some plants have miniature leaves, some huge, some in between. Flowers are always small, each with only a single layer of petals.

PROPER CARE: FIBROUS-ROOTED AND RHIZOMATOUS BEGONIAS

Light Fibrous‑rooted and rhizomatous begonias grown primarily for their fob age need bright light without direct sunlight. Those grown principafiy for their flowers need three to four hours a day of direct sunlight.

Temperature Normal room temperatures are suitable for actively growing plants. Those that have a winter rest period should be kept at about 15degC — but not below 12degC during this period. All begonias suffer in dry air. For increased humidity stand pots on trays of moist pebbles, and suspend saucers of water under hanging baskets.

Watering Water actively growing plants moderately, allowing the top 2cm of the potting mixture to dry out before watering again. During any winter rest period water more sparingly, allowing the top half of the mixture to dry out between waterings.

Feeding Apply standard liquid fertilizer every two weeks to actively growing plants.

Potting and repotting Use either a peat‑based potting mixture or a combination of equal parts of soil‑based potting mixture and coarse leaf mold. Put 3cm layer of clay‑pot fragments in the bottom of pots for extra drainage.

Move fibrous‑rooted plants into pots one size larger every spring until maximum convenient pot size (probably 15-20cm) has been reached. Thereafter, topdress annually with fresh potting mixture. Rhizomatous begonias have shallow roots and are best planted in half‑pots or pans. Move a small rhizomatous plant into the next size pot or pan only when the rlfizome has grown across the entire surface of the potting mixture; do this preferably in spring. Discard aging rhizomatous begonias in favor of attractive new plants.

When potting or repotting a begonia, simply sprinkle some mixture around the roots, and tap the container briskly to settle the mixture. Do not firm it down with the fingers.

PROPAGATION:FIBROUS-ROOTED KINDS

Take 7‑ to 10cm‑long cuttings of non‑flowering shoots in spring or early summer. Trim each cutting immediately below a leaf, carefully remove the leaf, and dip the cut end of the stem in hormone rooting powder. Plant the cutting in a 7.5cm pot of a moistened equal‑parts mixture of peat moss and coarse sand or perlite, and enclose the whole in a plastic bag or propagating case. Stand it in bright filtered light until renewed growth indicates that rooting has occurred (about three to six weeks). Uncover the rooted cutting, and begin to water it sparingly and to apply standard liquid fertilizer once every two weeks. Do not overwater, particularly not the hirsute begoriias, which will rot if kept too wet. About six months after the start of propagation, move the young plant into a slightly larger pot of standard mixture, and treat it as a mature begonia.

Many of these begonias can also be propagated from seed. Seeds are very tiny and should not be buried when sown. Mix them with a little fine sand before sowing.

PROPAGATION: RHIZOMATOUS KINDS

Cut off 5- to 7cm‑long growing tips of rhizomes and treat them like stem cuttings of fibrous‑rooted specimens (see above). Or, in spring, cut a rhizome into 5- to 7cm‑long sections, each with at least one growth point and treat cut ends of sections with sulphur dust. Plant each section half in and half out of slightly moistened rooting mixture in a 7.5cm pot or pan. Use a rooting mix of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or perlite. Place the section either horizontally or vertically, depending on how the parent rhizome was growing in its container. Enclose each planted piece of rhizome in a plastic bag or propagating case and stand it in bright filtered light. Roots should form in four to six weeks. When two or three new leaves have appeared, uncover the little plant, repot it in an appropriate container of the recommended mixture for begonias, and treat it as a mature plant.

Most of the rhizomatous begonias can also be propagated every spring from leaf cuttings. (B. erythrophylla and B. limmingheiana are exceptions).  Take a healthy leaf with 3- to 5cm of leafstalk attached, and plant the stalk at an angle of 45 deg in a small pot of the moistened rooting mixture recommended above (or insert several leaves in a small pan or seed tray). Enclose the whole in a plastic bag or propagating case, and stand it in bright filtered light. Rooting should occur in two to three weeks, and tiny plantlets should begin to appear from each leaf after a further two to three weeks. Several plantlets are generally clustered together. When each of them has produced at least two recognizable leaves, pot the plantlets up singly in 7.5cm containers of the recommended potting mixture for mature begonias. Before treating the little plants as adults, however, dampen the mixture slightly and put the plants back in a plastic bag or propagating case for another four weeks. This will acclimatise them to normal room conditions.

SPECIAL POINTS

Some begonias, particularly B. ‘Coralhna de Lucema’, B. maculata, and the tuberous B. sutherlandii are susceptible to attack by powdery mildew, which shows up at first as small powder coated spots on stems, leafstalks, and leaves. As a preventive measure spray all begonias with a suitable fungicide at regular intervals.

Many Begonias are grown for their interesting foliage

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS

Tuberous begonias are grown principally for their handsome flowers. Plants truly characteristic of the group have swollen underground stems (tubers) and are deciduous, with a period of total dormancy every year. Some kinds, however, do not lose their top growth in winter even though they are tuberous. They have a deep rest period. These plants are termed ’semi‑tuberous’. There is a third group, composed entirely of winter‑flowering plants (commonly called Christmas‑flowering begonias in the Northern Hemisphere), which are fibrous‑rooted but have tuberous ancestors and the tuberous habit of dormancy after flowering. Plants of this type are usually grown as temporary indoor specimens, to be thrown away when flowering ceases.

PROPER CARE: TUBEROUS BEGONIAS

Light Give all tuberous begonias bright filtered light all year round. Light is not important during the dormant period for types that lose their top growth.

Temperature During the active growth period normal room temperatures are suitable. In temperatures above 18 deg C stand pots on trays of moist pebbles, or suspend saucers of water under hanging baskets. During the winter keep dormant forms at a temperature of about 12 deg C. Semi-tuberous forms, which retain their foliage while resting, should ideally be kept at about 12 deg C in bright filtered light during the winter. Winter flowering begonias become totally dormant in summer, but they are best discarded after flowering.

Watering Water actively growing plants moderately, allowing the 2cm of the mixture to dry out before watering again. As growth slows down, reduce amounts of water gradually. For the forms that lose their stems and foliage in winter, stop watering when the leaves begin to turn yellow. During the winter rest period of semi‑tuberous types give just enough water to prevent the potting mixture from drying out.

Feeding Apply a high‑potash liquid fertiliser to actively growing plants every two weeks.

Potting and repotting Use either a peat‑based mixture or a combination of equal parts of soil‑based mixture and coarse leaf mold. Put an 3cm layer of clay‑pot fragments in the bottom of pots for extra drainage. When potting or repotting, simply sprinkle some mixture around the tuber and roots, and tap the container briskly to settle the mixture.

Start the tubers of B. tuberhybrida forms into growth in early spring by planting several in shallow trays of moistened peat moss, setting the tubers (with the concave side upward) half in, and half out, of the peat moss.

Stand each tray in bright filtered light for about three or four weeks, when 5cm of top growth will have been made. Then move each specimen into a 7.5- or 10cm pot of the recommended mixture for adult plants. The dormant tubers of other forms are smaller, and can be planted directly in 7.5- or 10cm pots of the recommended mixture. Thereafter, treat all forms as mature tuberous begonias. The large flowered hybrids may need to be moved into larger pots two or three times during the summer, but most other kinds can spend the entire season in the same container.

The semi‑tuberous begonias should be moved into pots one size larger each spring. When repotting always keep the tuberous swelling at the same level in the mixture. After maximum convenient pot size (probably 15- to 20cm) has been reached, top dress annually with fresh mixture. Winter‑flowering begonias are normally bought as young plants and do not need moving on into larger pots during their short stay in the home.

PROPAGATION: TUBEROUS BEGONIAS

The best way to pro­pagate B. gracilis, B. grandis, and B.sutherlandii is from the small tubers usually known as bulbils‑that appear in leaf axils in autumn. Detach these bulbils when top growth dies down. Store them in a container at about 12 deg C until the following spring. Then plant each bulbil in a 5- or 7.5cm pot of the recommended potting mixture, just covering the bulbil with moistened mixture. Stand the pot in bright filtered light, and at first water only enough to make the mixture barely moist, but gradually increase the amount. Treat the rooted bulbil as a mature plant when it has made 8cm of top growth. It will not reach full size or flower profusely until its second year.

B. sutherlandii develops bulbils in some of its leaf axils during autumn. These can be detached and used for propagation.

B. dregei and B. Weltoriiensis, the semi‑tuberous forms, are normally propagated from 5- to 7.5cm‑long tip cuttings of new growth taken in late spring or summer. Trim each cutting immediately below a leaf, dip the cut end in hormone rooting powder, and plant it in a 5- to 7.5cm pot containing a moistened equal‑parts mixture of peat moss and coarse sand or perlite. Enclose the whole in a plastic bag or propagating case, and stand it in bright filtered light. After rooting occurs (generally in three to four weeks), treat the rooted cutting as a mature begonia, but do not move it into the recommended potting mixture for mature plants until it has made at least 15cm of top growth. (Winter‑flowering begonias can also be propagated from tip cuttings, but this is a difficult process not recommended for amateur gardeners.)

To propagate B. tuberhybrida forms cut a large tuber into two or more sections in spring, making sure that each has a growing point. Treat the cut ends of sections with sulphur dust, and pot each one exactly as if it were a whole tuber (see “Potting and repotting,” above).

SPECIAL POINTS

At the end of the growing season, the stems and leaves of deciduous begonias will gradually fall off. Do not pull away the stems since this could damage the tubers.

Disease problems associated with begonias include Botrytis blight and stem rot, powdery mildew, and Pythium root and stem rot. The major pests of begonias are mealy bugs, spider mites, scales, snails and slugs.

A second feature dealing with recommended varieties of tuberous, rhizomous and fibrous rooted begonias will be posted here in the near future. Visit again soon!

Veronica ranges from prostrate rock garden specimens right up to 90cm tall cutting-garden plants.

Veronica, often called Speedwell, is a favourite perennial border plant flowering from summer through to autumn. It is a great plant for attracting bees, butterflies and birds and with its tall flower spikes and deep green foliage is an excellent accent plant. Veronica blooms for an unusually long time for a perennial.

There are about 500 species of Veronica making it the largest genus in the flowering plant Plantaginaceae. The species are herbaceous annuals or perennials that are easy to grow. Veronicas begin flowering in early summer and continue for a long time through autumn. They come in different sizes and types, ranging from small ground huggers to taller clump forming ones with impressive flower.

Gardeners who love the colour blue know that veronica provides some of the clearest, truest blues in the perennial border. Other flower colours are also available, including pink, rose and white. Veronicas have flower spikes that are composed of dozens of densely arranged, small florets, that open progressively from the base upwards to form a long lasting spike.

I love using this very versatile plant along my garden paths and in the seating areas, where butterflies can collect on this long-blooming flower.

Although low-growing varieties are available, the most common veronicas form attractive 30cm to 90cm tall mounds. Narrow spikes of tiny flowers adorn the plant in midsummer and are superb in bouquets.

The lower spreading varieties seldom exceed 10cm in height and are a very good groundcover addition in your garden.

Veronica can be a workhorse in the cut flower garden; it will provide a full second crop of stems if cut down completely to the ground after the first harvest. Veronica is a spiky or linear type flower that provides movement, action, or life to an arrangement, and is long lasting in the vase.

SITE SELECTION

Veronica likes full sun in well-drained soil, and although it will tolerate some shade, the stems may flop a bit in that environment. In the USA Veronica is happy in Zones 3 to 8.

PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS

Transplant garden centre potted plants anytime during the growing season. Choose an overcast day or plant in the evening to minimize stress from the sun on the transplant. Space plants 30cm to 60cm apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 30cm, then mix in a 5cm to 10cm layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.

CARE

Veronicas must be watered regularly for best results. Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2cm layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 25mm per week. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to between 25m and 50mm above the soil line. Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.

The most common diseases afflicting Veronicas are fungal diseases characterized by powdery mildew appearing initially on the leaves. Diseases can be minimized by avoiding overcrowded spacing of plants and by carefully picking off affected leaves as soon as symptoms are evident. You can also apply fungicides as soon as symptoms are visible. Samples of fungicides to use are horticultural oil, sulphur, potassium bicarbonate and thiophanate-methyl. Check the labels for correct dosage.

COMPANION PLANTS

Coreopsis: Zagreb coreopsis has strong yellow daisy flowers over thread-like leaves that combine well with ‘Blue Peter’ veronica in sun.

Lady’s mantle: The chartreuse foamy flower sprays of Lady’s Mantle are an attractive foil for Sunny Border Blue veronica in early summer.

Salvia: Echo the vertical spikes of violet Blue Salvia with the vertical spikes of white Icicle veronica. They enjoy similar situations.

Hemerocallis (Daylilies): An incredible assortment of flower sizes and colours, bloom times and plant heights means that there’s a daylily for nearly any landscape situation! Try them in mixed shrub or perennial plantings, or naturalised in open areas. Long-lived and easy to grow.

Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan): Vibrant daisy flowers are classic summer beauties that attract butterflies and make beautiful cut flower arrangements. Native to North America, they are well-suited for the meadow or wildflower garden, and for naturalising. Combines well with Aster, Butterfly Bush and Echinacea. Heat tolerant.

Shasta Daisy: Beautiful daisy flowers are great for summer bouquets. Also attractive in butterfly gardens, or combined with other perennials such as Iris, Poppy, Daylily or Yarrow. Remove faded flowers down to the next visible bud to promote re-bloom.

SOME FAVOURITE VERONICAS

Red Fox Veronica: Perfect variety for borders and naturalised areas, this deep rose-red variety won’t overwhelm existing plantings — grows to 30cm to 45cm in height with an equal spread. Dense flower spikes attract butterflies with blooms all summer long. Zones 3-8.

Crater Lake Blue veronica (Veronica austriaca ‘Crater Lake Blue’): Bears deep blue flowers in early summer on 45cm-tall plants. Zones 6-8.

Georgia Blue veronica (Veronica ‘Georgia Blue’): Develops large mats of toothed purple-tinged foliage. Racemes of small saucer-shaped white-eyed deep blue flowers bloom from early spring into summer. It grows 30cm tall. Hardy in Zones 6-8.

Giles Van Hees veronica (Veronica ‘Giles Van Hees’) has lance-shaped foliage and dense spikes of bright pink flowers in summer. It grows 15cm tall. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Veronica (‘Ulster Blue Dwarf’): Blooms on a compact 30cm plant. This favourite Veronica is loved for its profusion of intense violet blue flowers all summer long. Wonderful as a border or container plant. Remove faded flowers to promote even more blooms. Rabbit resistant. Blooms mid to late season.

Icicle veronica (Veronica spicata ‘Icicle’) bears pure white flowers on spikes to 60cm tall. Zones 3-8.

Sunny Border Blue veronica (Veronica ‘Sunny Border Blue’) is one of the best upright veronicas for sunny gardens. With glossy, dark green crumpled leaves and 18cm spires of violet flowers from early summer on, it is outstanding. It grows to 60cm tall. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Waterperry Blue veronica (Veronica ‘Waterperry Blue’) is a groundcover type with sky-blue flowers in spring. It grows 15cm tall. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

This is not intended to be a definitive list.

Grasses are not a summer fancy. They add interest to all seasons.

Ornamental grasses can be used as fillers or specimens, border plants or background plantings, as ground covers or screens, or they may be grown as container plants. Their adaptability and subtle beauty make them perfect companions to flowering plants and other woody ornamentals.

Grasses can be used in the landscape just like perennials, but their usefulness extends far beyond that of a normal perennial. Grasses are useful for erosion control, space barriers, wildlife shelters, winter interest, as a background to flowering plants, and as architectural features, to name a few.

Grasses add the dimensions of sound and movement to the garden as wind catches and rustles the leaves. The dried stalks of many grasses remain upright for winter interest. The wide variety of colours, sizes and growth habits of grasses assures that one will fit almost any garden.

The term ornamental grass is used to include not only true grasses (Gramineae) but close relatives such as sedges (Cyperaceae) (Carex), rushes (Juncaceae), Liriope, hardy bamboos (particularly the genus Phyllostachys), and others. The flower spikes (also known as inflorescences) can be found in different shades of maroon, red, pink, silver, white, yellow, or beige and are excellent for drying.

Ornamental grasses are not the kind of grasses that you broadcast spread across the front or back yard. Hopefully, you will never run across them with the lawn mower, either. Rather, Ornamental grasses are decorative. They look great in the flower garden. They are used to add depth and texture to highlight rock gardens. They are mixed amidst shrubs.

Ornamental grasses add grace and motion to the garden with strap-like foliage that sways in the gentlest breeze. The fluffy flowers and seed heads on many varieties last throughout the winter, attracting birds and adding winter interest to the garden.

Ornamental grasses include many species with different textures, sizes, colours, and flower forms. Each grass species has it’s own unique form. They may form low compact mounds, tall screens, or densely spreading mats. The foliage colours include various shades of green, blue and red, as well as variegated varieties having red, white or yellow foliage banded with ivory or yellow stripes. In the fall, the spring and summer colours change to hues of red, beige, or brown, providing a great winter garden accent.

Scores of ornamental grasses are now in use with many new forms continuously being added. Speculation as to the reasons for this astonishing rise in popularity appears to centre round the practical, as well as aesthetic merit of ornamental grasses as a whole. Many of the ornamental grasses have an inherent ability to handle both the drought years as well as the wet years, are eagerly sought.

Ornamental grasses fit into the herbaceous (non-woody) category of earth’s vegetation and they are divided into two categories: cool-season and warm season. As the name suggests, cool season grasses make their best growth during the spring and autumn and usually become dormant or semi-dormant during the heat of summer. Feather Reed Grass and Blue Fescue are prime examples.

Warm season grasses make their best growth during long summer days and go dormant during the winter. The popular Maiden Grasses are examples of warm season grasses.

SELECTING GRASSES

The selection of available grass cultivars is ever increasing. One will find a wide range of height, spread, colour, and flowering times available. Some grasses have become invasive in some areas, have been declared noxious weeds and have been banned from being grown in home gardens. Again seek the advice of a local extension office or garden centre before planting grasses.

One of the two key things to consider when selecting a grass is it’s height.

Tall (2m or more), upright growing types create visual interest, especially when used towards the back of a border. Their bold lines break up space over a long season, some remaining attractive well into the winter. These are the big guys! Plan their placement carefully because you won’t be able to move them easily!

Medium-sized (60cm to 2m) grasses may be effectively massed together, particularly in gardens with a low maintenance emphasis. Spring-flowering bulbs combine well with these for early season interest. These grasses also can be used a specimen plants throughout your garden without taking up too much space.

Low-growing (less than 60cm) grasses are ideal for edging around shrubs or combining with spreading evergreens. When mass-planted, they will form an attractive low-maintenance groundcover.

The second key thing to consider when selecting a grass is climate. Check carefully with your local nursery, garden centre or extension office as to which varieties will do well in your area. Some varieties which you may favour will drop off of your list. But don’t be down! There are many attractive grasses available for even some of the harshest climates!

BAMBOOS

Bamboos are also grasses; they are made stiff by the presence of silica in their stems.  Often overlooked by homeowners, bamboos are a nice evergreen addition to the ornamental grass palette. The Giant Bamboo Forest in Asia is the endangered habitat of the Giant Pandas; however, there are a wide variety of smaller bamboos that are useful in a garden setting.

Many bamboo plants are tender, but there are bamboos that are hardy in colder climates.  Some bamboos will die back to the ground in the winter, but will sprout anew in spring.  There are two types of bamboo:  running bamboo and clumping bamboo.  Running bamboos can be quite invasive; therefore it is important to plant them in an area in which they can be contained or where their running habit is an asset, not a detriment.  Clumping bamboos do not spread; they form clumps. Several bamboos have interesting shaped canes, or stems—there are golden bamboos and bamboos with zigzag canes.  Bamboos are usually evergreen and therefore provide good winter interest.

SITE SELECTION

Most ornamental grasses reside in full sun, having spent most of their existence in savannas, tundras and coastal plains. Understanding their origins help explain the types of soil they prefer, opting for sandy soils over loams and clay.

They don’t need copious amounts of rainfall or watering to exist and can easily survive extended periods of drought. This is why they do so well in xeriscape gardens and those created to be drought-tolerant.

It’s best not to grow grasses with high water-dependent plants as either the grass will struggle with excessive moisture or the water needy will suffer from not enough. Group ornamental grasses with succulents, cacti and grey-foliage plants for their best rate of survival.

PROPAGATING GRASSES

This is by far one of the easiest plant families to propagate after succulents. The most effective method is via collecting seed and distributing in situ. Some, like the Japanese Blood Grass, can be divided and propagated this way which can be just as successful but takes more effort.

The problem with grasses is not their ability to propagate but that they are so successful at it. You may find yourself weeding more often if you don’t want them to spread beyond their boundaries. In order to prevent reseeding, harvest the flower heads before they’re fully dry.

PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS

Ornamental grasses are most commonly purchased pre-planted in 5 litre containers. Plant in spring, spacing plants 30cm to 1m apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 30cm to 40cm, then mix in a 5cm to 10cm layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.

CARE

Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 5cm layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 25mm per week. Cut back the plant in late winter to stimulate new growth. Some species need dividing every 3 to 4 years to keep the plants vigorous. Taller species, such as fountain grass, may need staking.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES IN CONTAINERS

Growing ornamental grasses in containers is a great way to feature grasses without the worry of them spreading or taking over the garden.

COMPANION PLANTS FOR ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

When talking about selecting grasses we spoke about tall, medium sized and low-growing grasses. We have therefore selected companion plants using similar grouping.

Companion Plants for Tall Grasses

· Aster — Summer and Autumn bloomers in shades of pink, purple and blue.

· Bronze Fennel — Feathery, bronze foliage.

· Cleome — Airy pink, purple or white flowers from mid summer to autumn. Annual.

· Cosmos — A self-sowing annual in a variety of colours.

· Digitalis ferruginea (Rusty Foxglove) — Excellent for adding height.

· Echinacea (Purple Coneflower) — A classic companion plant.

· Eryngium (Sea Holly) — Wonderful for adding texture.

· Gaura (Appleblossom Grass) — Not really a grass, but it’s a great perennial.

· Knautia — A good filler with a long bloom season.

· Liatris — Provides a vertical accent.

· Lychnis — Brightly coloured flowers are a real standout.

· Monarda (Bee Balm) — Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

· Perovskia (Russian Sage) — Bushy perennial with lavender-blue flowers.

· Rudbeckia — Large, daisy-like flowers. Blooms in late summer and autumn.

· Verbena — Self-sowing, first-year flowering perennials.

· Solidago (Goldenrod) — Yellow flowers in late summer.

Companion Plants for Medium-Size Grasses

· Alyssum — Masses of tiny white flowers.

· Asclepias (Butterfly Weed) — Bright orange flowers. Drought-tolerant.

· Campanula rotundifolia — Beautiful, blue colour all summer long.

· Coreopsis — Golden yellow or brick red flowers.

· Daylilies (Hemerocallis) — Many colors to choose from.

· Eschscholzia (California Poppy) — Long-blooming annual.

· Hyssop — Stunning blue color. Repeat blooms.

· Lavatera — A nice annual for filling in the gaps.

· Lobelia — Perennial species do well with shade-tolerant grasses.

· Oenothera (Evening Primrose) — Bright yellow flowers.

· Penstemon — Blooms in early summer. Foliage and seed pods are nice in autumn.

· Platycodon (Balloon Flower) — White, blue or pink flowers.

· Salvia superba — Violet-blue or pink flowers. Reliable perennial.

· Scabiosa ochroleuca — A nice filler with pincushion-style flowers.

· Zinnia — Summer blooming annuals.

Companion Plants for Short Grasses

· Campanula carpatica — Compact, blue bellflower.

· Cosmidium ‘Phillipine’ — Unusual colour. Long-blooming annual.

· Dianthus deltoides — Very short, spreading perennial with vibrant flowers.

· Iberis gibraltarica — Lavender-pink flowers in spring. Repeat blooms.

· Lavender ‘Lady’ — Compact and long-blooming. Fragrant.

· Salvia ‘Lady in Red’ — Red flowers for hummingbirds. Annual.

· Salvia ‘Purple Volcano’ — Burgundy-purple foliage makes a nice contrast.

· Viola (Pansy) — Self-sowing, short-lived perennials.

Sage is a powerful antioxidant and antibacterial, so its culinary use probably started out more as a preservative than a flavouring.

Sage is a member of the mint family and there are over 750 different varieties of sage scattered across our planet. The sage varieties used as culinary herbs stem from the Mediterranean and Asia Minor and Sage has been grown in Central Europe since the Middle Ages.

Sage is a woody, hardy perennial plant with oblong, woolly, gray-green leaves that are lighter underneath and darker on top. Sage has a tendency to sprawl.

Culinary sage (Salvia officinalis) refers to a small group of the genus Salvia. These are evergreen perennial sub-shrubs with woolly greyish leaves that add an earthy freshness to foods. Spikes of purple/blue flowers appear in mid-summer. It’s useful, good-looking, and easy to grow. It offers a long season of harvest, and holds its flavour well when dried.

This aromatic and slightly bitter herb flavours vinegars, herbal butter, omelets, soups, and poultry stuffings. Fresh sage is sometimes added to salads.

Common Salvia officinalis is undemanding in the garden. For variety and attractiveness, try one of the following —

S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ doesn’t get as large as S. officinalis, but the variegation of its green, white and pink/purple leaves make it as much an ornamental as a culinary herb.

S. officinalis ‘Purpurescens’ has deep purple young leaves that mature to a burgundy

S. officinalis ‘Aurea’ is a compact grower with soft yellow leaves and purple flowers.

PROPAGATION

Sage is grown from seed. They can be directly seeded into your garden, or started indoors for transplanting later. Start them indoors six weeks before the last frost. If planting outdoors, sow them after the soil has begun to warm in the spring.

Sow seeds early in the season and cover lightly with soil. Space seedlings, or thin plants to, 30cm apart. Keep the soil moist when the seedlings are young. When the plants are well established, water only in dry weather.

Sage prefers a sunny area of the garden to grow in, but may require afternoon shade in very warm areas. The soil that Sage and grows in should be rich and moist. Ideally the pH will be slightly acidic to neutral (pH 5.8 to 7.0).

Once established pinch back the tips of young Sage plants when they reach about 15cm; this will encourage more branching and a bigger harvest. Once Sage has flowered dead-head them. Sage likes moist soil so it is important to water them regularly. If you are growing perennial Salvia then cut them back in the autumn to about 5cm in height, and divide them every four years to maintain vigour.

COMPANION PLANTING

Sage attracts butterflies and bees and grows well with rosemary. Sage also helps repel cabbage moths, flea beetles, and carrot flies and improves the flavour of cabbage.

PESTS AND DISEASES

Diseases and pests normally aren’t a big problem with sage. Good drainage will, in most cases, prevent root rot, a disease encouraged by too much moisture for too long around the roots. In humid, poorly ventilated conditions, sage is susceptible to powdery and downy mildews. Here again, prevention is the best control; plant sage where it gets plenty of air circulation, and leave ample space between plants. In cases where mildew does appear, we use horticultural oil or a sulphur spray. Spider mites, thrips, and spittlebugs have a taste for sage. Use organic insecticides like pyrethrum or insecticidal soap or oil to keep these pests under control.

HARVESTING AND STORING

Harvest lightly during the first year to allow this perennial plant to become established. In the following couple of years, you may be able to harvest an entire plant two or three times. When harvesting, leave a few stalks in place to allow the plant to rejuvenate.

If you plan to dry sage for the winter, take your main harvest just before the flowers begin to form. The best leaves come from the last 10cm of a branch. Plan to dry sage fairly rapidly so it doesn’t acquire a musty flavour. One method is to pick off individual leaves and spread them on a screen set in a shaded, warm, dry place. Or you can hang small bunches in a warm, well-ventilated room. Sage is one of those unusual herbs that gets stronger as it dries. Store dried sage in an opaque container with a tight-fitting lid.

HEALING QUALITIES AND ANECDOTES

The name Salvia derives from the Latin ’salveo’, which means to heal. Indeed this herb is highly regarded for its healing qualities. An ancient proverb states, “Why should a man die who has sage in his garden?” The ancient Greeks used it to treat consumption, ulcers and snake bites.

The Romans considered sage to be a sacred herb and concocted an elaborate ceremony just to pick it. A sage gatherer would have to use a special knife (not made of iron as it reacts with the sage), have to have clean clothes and clean feet and a sacrifice of food would have to be made before he could begin. Funny lot those Romans. The Romans would use it for toothpaste and they thought it was good for the brain, senses and memory.

Egyptian women drank sage tea to increase fertility. Hippocrates prescribed it for healing.

The Chinese also were quite partial to this herb and 17th century Dutch merchants found that they would trade one chest of sage leaves for three of their tea.

There is even a strange breed of sage, native to Central America, that is hallucinogenic. Known as Salvia divinorum, which means sacred sage or sage of the diviners, it was used in religious ceremonies by the Central American Indians.

Two more features on Sages / Salvias will be posted here. The first deals with ornamental sages and salvias for the garden and the second with the South Africa’s native sages. These have been used for centuries by indigenous tribes as washes, lotions and disinfectants and as remedies for ailments ranging from sore throats to indigestion and flatulence. Come back soon!