Veronica ranges from prostrate rock garden specimens right up to 90cm tall cutting-garden plants.

Veronica, often called Speedwell, is a favourite perennial border plant flowering from summer through to autumn. It is a great plant for attracting bees, butterflies and birds and with its tall flower spikes and deep green foliage is an excellent accent plant. Veronica blooms for an unusually long time for a perennial.

There are about 500 species of Veronica making it the largest genus in the flowering plant Plantaginaceae. The species are herbaceous annuals or perennials that are easy to grow. Veronicas begin flowering in early summer and continue for a long time through autumn. They come in different sizes and types, ranging from small ground huggers to taller clump forming ones with impressive flower.

Gardeners who love the colour blue know that veronica provides some of the clearest, truest blues in the perennial border. Other flower colours are also available, including pink, rose and white. Veronicas have flower spikes that are composed of dozens of densely arranged, small florets, that open progressively from the base upwards to form a long lasting spike.

I love using this very versatile plant along my garden paths and in the seating areas, where butterflies can collect on this long-blooming flower.

Although low-growing varieties are available, the most common veronicas form attractive 30cm to 90cm tall mounds. Narrow spikes of tiny flowers adorn the plant in midsummer and are superb in bouquets.

The lower spreading varieties seldom exceed 10cm in height and are a very good groundcover addition in your garden.

Veronica can be a workhorse in the cut flower garden; it will provide a full second crop of stems if cut down completely to the ground after the first harvest. Veronica is a spiky or linear type flower that provides movement, action, or life to an arrangement, and is long lasting in the vase.

SITE SELECTION

Veronica likes full sun in well-drained soil, and although it will tolerate some shade, the stems may flop a bit in that environment. In the USA Veronica is happy in Zones 3 to 8.

PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS

Transplant garden centre potted plants anytime during the growing season. Choose an overcast day or plant in the evening to minimize stress from the sun on the transplant. Space plants 30cm to 60cm apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 30cm, then mix in a 5cm to 10cm layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.

CARE

Veronicas must be watered regularly for best results. Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2cm layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 25mm per week. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to between 25m and 50mm above the soil line. Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.

The most common diseases afflicting Veronicas are fungal diseases characterized by powdery mildew appearing initially on the leaves. Diseases can be minimized by avoiding overcrowded spacing of plants and by carefully picking off affected leaves as soon as symptoms are evident. You can also apply fungicides as soon as symptoms are visible. Samples of fungicides to use are horticultural oil, sulphur, potassium bicarbonate and thiophanate-methyl. Check the labels for correct dosage.

COMPANION PLANTS

Coreopsis: Zagreb coreopsis has strong yellow daisy flowers over thread-like leaves that combine well with ‘Blue Peter’ veronica in sun.

Lady’s mantle: The chartreuse foamy flower sprays of Lady’s Mantle are an attractive foil for Sunny Border Blue veronica in early summer.

Salvia: Echo the vertical spikes of violet Blue Salvia with the vertical spikes of white Icicle veronica. They enjoy similar situations.

Hemerocallis (Daylilies): An incredible assortment of flower sizes and colours, bloom times and plant heights means that there’s a daylily for nearly any landscape situation! Try them in mixed shrub or perennial plantings, or naturalised in open areas. Long-lived and easy to grow.

Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan): Vibrant daisy flowers are classic summer beauties that attract butterflies and make beautiful cut flower arrangements. Native to North America, they are well-suited for the meadow or wildflower garden, and for naturalising. Combines well with Aster, Butterfly Bush and Echinacea. Heat tolerant.

Shasta Daisy: Beautiful daisy flowers are great for summer bouquets. Also attractive in butterfly gardens, or combined with other perennials such as Iris, Poppy, Daylily or Yarrow. Remove faded flowers down to the next visible bud to promote re-bloom.

SOME FAVOURITE VERONICAS

Red Fox Veronica: Perfect variety for borders and naturalised areas, this deep rose-red variety won’t overwhelm existing plantings — grows to 30cm to 45cm in height with an equal spread. Dense flower spikes attract butterflies with blooms all summer long. Zones 3-8.

Crater Lake Blue veronica (Veronica austriaca ‘Crater Lake Blue’): Bears deep blue flowers in early summer on 45cm-tall plants. Zones 6-8.

Georgia Blue veronica (Veronica ‘Georgia Blue’): Develops large mats of toothed purple-tinged foliage. Racemes of small saucer-shaped white-eyed deep blue flowers bloom from early spring into summer. It grows 30cm tall. Hardy in Zones 6-8.

Giles Van Hees veronica (Veronica ‘Giles Van Hees’) has lance-shaped foliage and dense spikes of bright pink flowers in summer. It grows 15cm tall. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Veronica (‘Ulster Blue Dwarf’): Blooms on a compact 30cm plant. This favourite Veronica is loved for its profusion of intense violet blue flowers all summer long. Wonderful as a border or container plant. Remove faded flowers to promote even more blooms. Rabbit resistant. Blooms mid to late season.

Icicle veronica (Veronica spicata ‘Icicle’) bears pure white flowers on spikes to 60cm tall. Zones 3-8.

Sunny Border Blue veronica (Veronica ‘Sunny Border Blue’) is one of the best upright veronicas for sunny gardens. With glossy, dark green crumpled leaves and 18cm spires of violet flowers from early summer on, it is outstanding. It grows to 60cm tall. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Waterperry Blue veronica (Veronica ‘Waterperry Blue’) is a groundcover type with sky-blue flowers in spring. It grows 15cm tall. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

This is not intended to be a definitive list.

Grasses are not a summer fancy. They add interest to all seasons.

Ornamental grasses can be used as fillers or specimens, border plants or background plantings, as ground covers or screens, or they may be grown as container plants. Their adaptability and subtle beauty make them perfect companions to flowering plants and other woody ornamentals.

Grasses can be used in the landscape just like perennials, but their usefulness extends far beyond that of a normal perennial. Grasses are useful for erosion control, space barriers, wildlife shelters, winter interest, as a background to flowering plants, and as architectural features, to name a few.

Grasses add the dimensions of sound and movement to the garden as wind catches and rustles the leaves. The dried stalks of many grasses remain upright for winter interest. The wide variety of colours, sizes and growth habits of grasses assures that one will fit almost any garden.

The term ornamental grass is used to include not only true grasses (Gramineae) but close relatives such as sedges (Cyperaceae) (Carex), rushes (Juncaceae), Liriope, hardy bamboos (particularly the genus Phyllostachys), and others. The flower spikes (also known as inflorescences) can be found in different shades of maroon, red, pink, silver, white, yellow, or beige and are excellent for drying.

Ornamental grasses are not the kind of grasses that you broadcast spread across the front or back yard. Hopefully, you will never run across them with the lawn mower, either. Rather, Ornamental grasses are decorative. They look great in the flower garden. They are used to add depth and texture to highlight rock gardens. They are mixed amidst shrubs.

Ornamental grasses add grace and motion to the garden with strap-like foliage that sways in the gentlest breeze. The fluffy flowers and seed heads on many varieties last throughout the winter, attracting birds and adding winter interest to the garden.

Ornamental grasses include many species with different textures, sizes, colours, and flower forms. Each grass species has it’s own unique form. They may form low compact mounds, tall screens, or densely spreading mats. The foliage colours include various shades of green, blue and red, as well as variegated varieties having red, white or yellow foliage banded with ivory or yellow stripes. In the fall, the spring and summer colours change to hues of red, beige, or brown, providing a great winter garden accent.

Scores of ornamental grasses are now in use with many new forms continuously being added. Speculation as to the reasons for this astonishing rise in popularity appears to centre round the practical, as well as aesthetic merit of ornamental grasses as a whole. Many of the ornamental grasses have an inherent ability to handle both the drought years as well as the wet years, are eagerly sought.

Ornamental grasses fit into the herbaceous (non-woody) category of earth’s vegetation and they are divided into two categories: cool-season and warm season. As the name suggests, cool season grasses make their best growth during the spring and autumn and usually become dormant or semi-dormant during the heat of summer. Feather Reed Grass and Blue Fescue are prime examples.

Warm season grasses make their best growth during long summer days and go dormant during the winter. The popular Maiden Grasses are examples of warm season grasses.

SELECTING GRASSES

The selection of available grass cultivars is ever increasing. One will find a wide range of height, spread, colour, and flowering times available. Some grasses have become invasive in some areas, have been declared noxious weeds and have been banned from being grown in home gardens. Again seek the advice of a local extension office or garden centre before planting grasses.

One of the two key things to consider when selecting a grass is it’s height.

Tall (2m or more), upright growing types create visual interest, especially when used towards the back of a border. Their bold lines break up space over a long season, some remaining attractive well into the winter. These are the big guys! Plan their placement carefully because you won’t be able to move them easily!

Medium-sized (60cm to 2m) grasses may be effectively massed together, particularly in gardens with a low maintenance emphasis. Spring-flowering bulbs combine well with these for early season interest. These grasses also can be used a specimen plants throughout your garden without taking up too much space.

Low-growing (less than 60cm) grasses are ideal for edging around shrubs or combining with spreading evergreens. When mass-planted, they will form an attractive low-maintenance groundcover.

The second key thing to consider when selecting a grass is climate. Check carefully with your local nursery, garden centre or extension office as to which varieties will do well in your area. Some varieties which you may favour will drop off of your list. But don’t be down! There are many attractive grasses available for even some of the harshest climates!

BAMBOOS

Bamboos are also grasses; they are made stiff by the presence of silica in their stems.  Often overlooked by homeowners, bamboos are a nice evergreen addition to the ornamental grass palette. The Giant Bamboo Forest in Asia is the endangered habitat of the Giant Pandas; however, there are a wide variety of smaller bamboos that are useful in a garden setting.

Many bamboo plants are tender, but there are bamboos that are hardy in colder climates.  Some bamboos will die back to the ground in the winter, but will sprout anew in spring.  There are two types of bamboo:  running bamboo and clumping bamboo.  Running bamboos can be quite invasive; therefore it is important to plant them in an area in which they can be contained or where their running habit is an asset, not a detriment.  Clumping bamboos do not spread; they form clumps. Several bamboos have interesting shaped canes, or stems—there are golden bamboos and bamboos with zigzag canes.  Bamboos are usually evergreen and therefore provide good winter interest.

SITE SELECTION

Most ornamental grasses reside in full sun, having spent most of their existence in savannas, tundras and coastal plains. Understanding their origins help explain the types of soil they prefer, opting for sandy soils over loams and clay.

They don’t need copious amounts of rainfall or watering to exist and can easily survive extended periods of drought. This is why they do so well in xeriscape gardens and those created to be drought-tolerant.

It’s best not to grow grasses with high water-dependent plants as either the grass will struggle with excessive moisture or the water needy will suffer from not enough. Group ornamental grasses with succulents, cacti and grey-foliage plants for their best rate of survival.

PROPAGATING GRASSES

This is by far one of the easiest plant families to propagate after succulents. The most effective method is via collecting seed and distributing in situ. Some, like the Japanese Blood Grass, can be divided and propagated this way which can be just as successful but takes more effort.

The problem with grasses is not their ability to propagate but that they are so successful at it. You may find yourself weeding more often if you don’t want them to spread beyond their boundaries. In order to prevent reseeding, harvest the flower heads before they’re fully dry.

PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS

Ornamental grasses are most commonly purchased pre-planted in 5 litre containers. Plant in spring, spacing plants 30cm to 1m apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 30cm to 40cm, then mix in a 5cm to 10cm layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.

CARE

Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 5cm layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 25mm per week. Cut back the plant in late winter to stimulate new growth. Some species need dividing every 3 to 4 years to keep the plants vigorous. Taller species, such as fountain grass, may need staking.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES IN CONTAINERS

Growing ornamental grasses in containers is a great way to feature grasses without the worry of them spreading or taking over the garden.

COMPANION PLANTS FOR ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

When talking about selecting grasses we spoke about tall, medium sized and low-growing grasses. We have therefore selected companion plants using similar grouping.

Companion Plants for Tall Grasses

· Aster — Summer and Autumn bloomers in shades of pink, purple and blue.

· Bronze Fennel — Feathery, bronze foliage.

· Cleome — Airy pink, purple or white flowers from mid summer to autumn. Annual.

· Cosmos — A self-sowing annual in a variety of colours.

· Digitalis ferruginea (Rusty Foxglove) — Excellent for adding height.

· Echinacea (Purple Coneflower) — A classic companion plant.

· Eryngium (Sea Holly) — Wonderful for adding texture.

· Gaura (Appleblossom Grass) — Not really a grass, but it’s a great perennial.

· Knautia — A good filler with a long bloom season.

· Liatris — Provides a vertical accent.

· Lychnis — Brightly coloured flowers are a real standout.

· Monarda (Bee Balm) — Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

· Perovskia (Russian Sage) — Bushy perennial with lavender-blue flowers.

· Rudbeckia — Large, daisy-like flowers. Blooms in late summer and autumn.

· Verbena — Self-sowing, first-year flowering perennials.

· Solidago (Goldenrod) — Yellow flowers in late summer.

Companion Plants for Medium-Size Grasses

· Alyssum — Masses of tiny white flowers.

· Asclepias (Butterfly Weed) — Bright orange flowers. Drought-tolerant.

· Campanula rotundifolia — Beautiful, blue colour all summer long.

· Coreopsis — Golden yellow or brick red flowers.

· Daylilies (Hemerocallis) — Many colors to choose from.

· Eschscholzia (California Poppy) — Long-blooming annual.

· Hyssop — Stunning blue color. Repeat blooms.

· Lavatera — A nice annual for filling in the gaps.

· Lobelia — Perennial species do well with shade-tolerant grasses.

· Oenothera (Evening Primrose) — Bright yellow flowers.

· Penstemon — Blooms in early summer. Foliage and seed pods are nice in autumn.

· Platycodon (Balloon Flower) — White, blue or pink flowers.

· Salvia superba — Violet-blue or pink flowers. Reliable perennial.

· Scabiosa ochroleuca — A nice filler with pincushion-style flowers.

· Zinnia — Summer blooming annuals.

Companion Plants for Short Grasses

· Campanula carpatica — Compact, blue bellflower.

· Cosmidium ‘Phillipine’ — Unusual colour. Long-blooming annual.

· Dianthus deltoides — Very short, spreading perennial with vibrant flowers.

· Iberis gibraltarica — Lavender-pink flowers in spring. Repeat blooms.

· Lavender ‘Lady’ — Compact and long-blooming. Fragrant.

· Salvia ‘Lady in Red’ — Red flowers for hummingbirds. Annual.

· Salvia ‘Purple Volcano’ — Burgundy-purple foliage makes a nice contrast.

· Viola (Pansy) — Self-sowing, short-lived perennials.

Sage is a powerful antioxidant and antibacterial, so its culinary use probably started out more as a preservative than a flavouring.

Sage is a member of the mint family and there are over 750 different varieties of sage scattered across our planet. The sage varieties used as culinary herbs stem from the Mediterranean and Asia Minor and Sage has been grown in Central Europe since the Middle Ages.

Sage is a woody, hardy perennial plant with oblong, woolly, gray-green leaves that are lighter underneath and darker on top. Sage has a tendency to sprawl.

Culinary sage (Salvia officinalis) refers to a small group of the genus Salvia. These are evergreen perennial sub-shrubs with woolly greyish leaves that add an earthy freshness to foods. Spikes of purple/blue flowers appear in mid-summer. It’s useful, good-looking, and easy to grow. It offers a long season of harvest, and holds its flavour well when dried.

This aromatic and slightly bitter herb flavours vinegars, herbal butter, omelets, soups, and poultry stuffings. Fresh sage is sometimes added to salads.

Common Salvia officinalis is undemanding in the garden. For variety and attractiveness, try one of the following —

S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ doesn’t get as large as S. officinalis, but the variegation of its green, white and pink/purple leaves make it as much an ornamental as a culinary herb.

S. officinalis ‘Purpurescens’ has deep purple young leaves that mature to a burgundy

S. officinalis ‘Aurea’ is a compact grower with soft yellow leaves and purple flowers.

PROPAGATION

Sage is grown from seed. They can be directly seeded into your garden, or started indoors for transplanting later. Start them indoors six weeks before the last frost. If planting outdoors, sow them after the soil has begun to warm in the spring.

Sow seeds early in the season and cover lightly with soil. Space seedlings, or thin plants to, 30cm apart. Keep the soil moist when the seedlings are young. When the plants are well established, water only in dry weather.

Sage prefers a sunny area of the garden to grow in, but may require afternoon shade in very warm areas. The soil that Sage and grows in should be rich and moist. Ideally the pH will be slightly acidic to neutral (pH 5.8 to 7.0).

Once established pinch back the tips of young Sage plants when they reach about 15cm; this will encourage more branching and a bigger harvest. Once Sage has flowered dead-head them. Sage likes moist soil so it is important to water them regularly. If you are growing perennial Salvia then cut them back in the autumn to about 5cm in height, and divide them every four years to maintain vigour.

COMPANION PLANTING

Sage attracts butterflies and bees and grows well with rosemary. Sage also helps repel cabbage moths, flea beetles, and carrot flies and improves the flavour of cabbage.

PESTS AND DISEASES

Diseases and pests normally aren’t a big problem with sage. Good drainage will, in most cases, prevent root rot, a disease encouraged by too much moisture for too long around the roots. In humid, poorly ventilated conditions, sage is susceptible to powdery and downy mildews. Here again, prevention is the best control; plant sage where it gets plenty of air circulation, and leave ample space between plants. In cases where mildew does appear, we use horticultural oil or a sulphur spray. Spider mites, thrips, and spittlebugs have a taste for sage. Use organic insecticides like pyrethrum or insecticidal soap or oil to keep these pests under control.

HARVESTING AND STORING

Harvest lightly during the first year to allow this perennial plant to become established. In the following couple of years, you may be able to harvest an entire plant two or three times. When harvesting, leave a few stalks in place to allow the plant to rejuvenate.

If you plan to dry sage for the winter, take your main harvest just before the flowers begin to form. The best leaves come from the last 10cm of a branch. Plan to dry sage fairly rapidly so it doesn’t acquire a musty flavour. One method is to pick off individual leaves and spread them on a screen set in a shaded, warm, dry place. Or you can hang small bunches in a warm, well-ventilated room. Sage is one of those unusual herbs that gets stronger as it dries. Store dried sage in an opaque container with a tight-fitting lid.

HEALING QUALITIES AND ANECDOTES

The name Salvia derives from the Latin ’salveo’, which means to heal. Indeed this herb is highly regarded for its healing qualities. An ancient proverb states, “Why should a man die who has sage in his garden?” The ancient Greeks used it to treat consumption, ulcers and snake bites.

The Romans considered sage to be a sacred herb and concocted an elaborate ceremony just to pick it. A sage gatherer would have to use a special knife (not made of iron as it reacts with the sage), have to have clean clothes and clean feet and a sacrifice of food would have to be made before he could begin. Funny lot those Romans. The Romans would use it for toothpaste and they thought it was good for the brain, senses and memory.

Egyptian women drank sage tea to increase fertility. Hippocrates prescribed it for healing.

The Chinese also were quite partial to this herb and 17th century Dutch merchants found that they would trade one chest of sage leaves for three of their tea.

There is even a strange breed of sage, native to Central America, that is hallucinogenic. Known as Salvia divinorum, which means sacred sage or sage of the diviners, it was used in religious ceremonies by the Central American Indians.

Two more features on Sages / Salvias will be posted here. The first deals with ornamental sages and salvias for the garden and the second with the South Africa’s native sages. These have been used for centuries by indigenous tribes as washes, lotions and disinfectants and as remedies for ailments ranging from sore throats to indigestion and flatulence. Come back soon!

Oregano is one of the easiest, most versatile and most useful herbs in the garden.

Oregano is such a great herb for the garden. Its attractive, grows like crazy, smells great, and tastes great! If oregano is left to bloom its flowers attract many pollinators. Could you really ask for more?

A member of the mint family, oregano is commonly used in Italian dishes and is a component of chilli powder. Oregano originates in the Mediterranean. It is closely related to the herb marjoram (oregano has a more intense flavour).

Oregano has a number of common names including Oregano, Winter Sweet, Pot Marjoram, Mountain Mint and Winter Marjoram.

The ancient Greeks considered oregano to be the “joy of the mountain.” In fact, the roots of the words, oros (mountain) and ganos (joy) attest to that fact. A popular traditional medicinal herb, it was used to treat skin wounds, headaches, trauma, lung conditions, seizures, stings and bites, and even heart failure. In fact, Hippocrates is documented as having used the herb as an antiseptic and a stomach aid. The herb also has extensive use, in most western countries, as a popular aromatic spice for dishes like marinara sauces, lamb stews, soups and pizza.

The oregano most often used in cooking goes by the common names Greek oregano, winter sweet marjoram, and Italian oregano. It’s a hardy plant that establishes quickly, getting no taller than 15 to 20cm. Be sure to buy Greek oregano, (Origanum vulgare hirtum) rather than common oregano (Origanum vulgare) if you want to cook with it. The leaves of Greek oregano are gray-green, fuzzy, broader than the leaves of it’s cousins and has a spicier flavour. This is the oregano that’ll give food that wonderful, herby punch.

Common oregano has no real flavour, though it is covered with ornamental lavender coloured flowers in summer, which dry well and are sometimes used in wreaths. Golden oregano can be used for a ground cover or in container plantings. For culinary oregano, purchase a plant or plants from a reputable herb nursery to ensure a flavourful, hardy plant.

PLANTING AND CARING FOR OREGANO

Oregano likes well drained soil and full sun but aside from that there are very few requirements. In the first few months, ensure the plants do not dry out, but after they have become established they should cope well with drought. Try to avoid letting the plants become waterlogged, however. Oregano is a Mediterranean plant and is not used to wet conditions. If you can’t grow oregano in a well-drained soil then grow it in a container with plenty of grit to aid drainage.

Oregano is easily started from seed after the last spring frost; you can also divide an established bed to get new plants, or propagate more by stem tip cuttings. Thin plants to stand 20 to 25cm apart.

Trim back before flowering (approximately 5 to 6 weeks after planting) to stimulate a denser, bushier growth habit. Plants will self-seed easily so you can thin out 3 to 4 year old plants to keep the bed quality high.

Oregano is a great companion plant for many vegetables and plants. It repels insects such as cucumber beetle and cabbage moths.

In the US oregano does best in Zones 5-10.

HARVESTING OREGANO

The leaves of oregano should be harvested just before the flowers appear. If the leaves are harvested after the flowers appear they can taste bitter. However, removing the flower heads before they open can keep the leaves tasting great. Oregano is most commonly used as a dried herb. Pick the leaves on a dry day and store them in a dark, dry warm place until they are crumbly in texture. Then store the dried leaves in an airtight container where they will retain their flavour for up to 6 months. Leaves can also be frozen.

ESSENTIAL OIL USE

Oil of Oregano is a staple for many herbalists. Its oils are useful in treating skin infections. It is an extremely potent anti-bacterial and anti-microbial agent. The oils have also been used in perfumes and soaps.

GROWING OREGANO IN A CONTAINER

Oregano is well suited to being grown in pots. Water the pot when the soil dries out (terracotta pots tend to dry out much quicker than plastic alternatives). If you over water the oregano the plants will rot and die.

As with all herbs, feeding oregano can impair the flavour of its leaves. Only feed once or twice during the season and use an organic feed such as seaweed.

INSECTS AND DISEASE

Watch for spider mites, leafminers and aphids, especially on plants grown in containers. If pests are found, apply a least-toxic, natural insect control, when necessary.

The mid-summer blooms of Shasta Daisies make them a backbone plant for the perennial garden.

Just over 100 years ago, horticulturalist Luther Burbank introduced his Shasta Daisy to the world. Burbank had spent 17 years creating the hybrid he named for the pure white snow on Mount Shasta that Burbank could see from his garden.
Burbank admired the fresh white flowers and yellow eye of the wild Oxeye Daisies. He wanted to create a garden version of the plant that would be good for cutting as well as the perennial border.

The Shasta Daisy of today was the result of crossing the Oxeye Daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) with English field daisies (Leucanthemum maximum) and then crossing the best selections from that match with the Portuguese field daisy (Leucanthemum lacustre). After six years of selectively breeding within this pool, Burbank added the pollen of Japanese field daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum), for its pure white flowers.

Until recently, Shasta Daisies were considered members of the Chrysanthemum family. But the daisies’ lack of fragrance and hairless stems caused them to be recently reclassified to Leucanthemum, the Sunflower family.

Shasta Daisies come in several varieties, single or double petals, dwarf to tall. They bloom over a long period, from early summer until fall, forming tidy clumps from 60cm to 90cm tall and up to 60cm across. The bright flowers contrast nicely with the glossy, dark green foliage, livening up any garden bed. The flowers are also suitable for cutting.

The mid-summer blooms of Shasta daisies make them a backbone plant for the perennial garden. Other plants that will go well with Shasta Daisies include Scabiosa or Veronica. Scabiosa blooms almost all summer, as does Shasta Daisy, so the combination will last a long time. You could also try a red-and-white combination for dramatic effect, by planting Red Salvia in front of the daisies. Campanulas, Daylilies, Dianthus, Coreopsis, Siberian Iris and Marigolds are all good planting companions for Shasta Daisies

This plant is easy enough to grow for a beginner yet important enough in garden design that experts include them in many perennial borders.

Daisies like rich, fast draining soil, ample water and lots of sunshine. However, they are hardy and will tolerate poor soil conditions and partial shade. Work some old animal manure or compost into the soil to help promote abundant blooms.

PROPAGATING SHASTA DAISIES
Shasta Daisies are easy to start from seed. In areas with long growing seasons, seeds can be sown directly into the garden, covered lightly and kept well watered until the first true leaves appear.

Indoors, sow seed sparsely on a seed starting medium. Germination rates for fresh Shasta Daisy seed are very high and separating plants at transplant time will be easier if they are not too thickly sown.

As perennials, it will take seed-started Shasta Daisy plants two years to bloom.
For quicker blooming plants, transplant from divisions of older plants. Shasta Daisies multiple rapidly and will require dividing every few years to keep them blooming robustly.

Shasta Daisies are a hardy perennial that grows well in Zones 4 -9 in the US.

Plant in spring, spacing plants 30cm to 60cm apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 30cm to 40cm, then mix in a 5cm to 10cm layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.

PLANT CARE
For shallow-rooted Shasta Daisies, mulching is essential. Spread a 5cm layer of some organic material such as wood chips, shredded bark or chopped leaves from your garden on the soil over their roots. This mulch helps to control weeds, conserves soil moisture, and keeps soil from splashing up on the flowers during the bloom period. In winter, after you have cut back dead stems, add another 25mm or so of mulch over the dormant plants to buffer the soil against severe winter temperatures.

Shasta Daisies are relatively carefree. Pinch back the tips of the stems of young standard types when they grow to about 15cm to encourage bushiness. Flowers will be a bit smaller, but more numerous. Cutting off dead flowers will extend their bloom period. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright.

After the first killing frost, cut stems back to 3cm above the soil line.

Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.

You can grow carnations and pinks almost anywhere, provided you give them a well drained position and plenty of sun.

Few flowers can rival the carnation’s beauty and sweet scent, and the home gardener has many varieties of this popular perennial to choose from

Carnations are among the most elegant of flowers, their ruffled blooms contributing to a popularity rivalled by few other plants. Their variety of colour adds beauty to any garden, and they are excellent as cut flowers. Until very recently, a carnation in the button‑hole was the hallmark of the well‑dressed man.

The word carnation is thought to be derived from the Latin corona, meaning a crown or garland. The name dates from the time when the ancient Romans wore crowns made out of these flowers during festivals.

Carnations, along with pinks and sweet williams, belong to the genus Dianthus. They are divided into two types: border carnations and perpetual-flowering carnations.

Border carnations were popular in Europe as long ago as the 16th century, but it was not until the late 19th century that the perpetual‑flowering variety began to be developed by horticulturists in the United States.

Border carnations are hardy perennials and flower once a year, during summer.

The blooms are large and some may grow up to 9cm across. They are borne on stout stems which must be carefully staked.

The flowers differ from perpetual-flowering carnations in that the petals are not serrated on the edges, but are smooth and flat.

There are four main types of border carnation: selfs, fancies, cloves, and picotees.

Selfs have flowers of one colour. There are varieties in almost every colour except blue.

Fancies have a single‑colour background with stripes or bars in contrasting colours.

Cloves are not confined to any particular colour‑scheme, but are distinguished by their scent, which resembles the aromatic spice — hence their name.

Picotees have a ground colour of white or yellow and a regular margin on the edge of every petal of rose, scarlet, or purple. There is no additional colour on the white or yellow part.

The perpetual‑flowering carnation — the kind generally seen in florists’ shops — is a perennial which usually remains at its best for about three or four years in the same position. It produces flowers for cutting throughout the year and does not need very high temperatures to flower in winter. The blooms are double, with serrated or round petals, and are often fragrant.

Pinks are not as easy to define as carnations. They are dainty plants with long, slender stems, bearing flattish flower heads, which resemble a sirnplified version of the carnation.

The old‑fashioned pink is not widely grown today because it has fewer flowers than the modern pink. In the first year the plant has only one central stem, with side growths producing flowers a year later, in early summer.

The modern pinks grow faster and produce many more blooms than the older variety, flowering first in early summer and then again in autumn.

They must be propagated more often than the old‑fashioned pinks, however — normally every two or three years.

One marking which is only found in pinks is the laced pink, in which the dark zone (or eye) at the base of each petal is extended in a band around the petal near the edge. The remainder of the petal — the ground colour — is white, creamy‑white, or pink. The flower as a whole thus has a dark centre with a surround of dark rings.

Carnations and pinks are well known for their tolerance to alkaline soil, but they also grow well in a wide range of other soils, provided they are well drained and not too acid.

You can grow carnations and pinks almost anywhere, provided you give them a well‑drained position and plenty of sun.

Future posts will deal with ‘Growing border carnations’, ‘Modern pinks, how to grow and increase them’, ‘Old fashioned pinks’ and ‘Growing perpetual flowering carnations’ — so come back to this section regularly.

Many varieties of cymbidium are available. Each individual butterfly like bloom is ideal for a buttonhole or corsage.

Many of the visitors to this website have probably been given a cymbidium orchid in a pot and had no idea how to care for the plant. Orchids have an aura of mystique, but they are really simple to look after, if you follow some basic rules.

In this post we will try and give you an insight into the cymbidium, the most popu­lar orchid for a gift, together with tips on how to grow them successfully in the home environment. Orchids are certainly different from any other form of plant life, but once one understands their structure and needs, they are not difficult to grow.

Orchid flowers are classed as resupinate — that is upside down, with the pedicel or ovary turned through 180^o. The cymbidiums usually have five petals surrounding a central trumpet‑shaped lip. They are not as frilly as the Cattleyas and the petals are thicker and not as delicate in appearance.

Cymbidium is the oldest cultivated orchid, and there is evidence that they were grown in China 2500 years ago in records from 500 BC at the time of Confucius.

The genus consists of about 50 species and, from these, thousands of hybrids have been bred. 

The wild types are found growing naturally in China, and Japan through the Himalayas, South East Asia to Australia.

They may be terrestrial in habit or epiphytic or even lithophytic (growing on rocks).

WHAT TO DO IF YOU ARE GIVEN A CYMBIDIUM ORCHID AS A PRESENT

Orchids are becoming popular as potplants, and not all orchids have to be grown in a greenhouse. If you can grow African violets successfully, then orchid growing is relaively easy. Here we will discuss the growing of cymbidiums, which are the most likely variety to be given as gifts.

Cymbidiums come in a vast range of flower shapes, colours and sizes. The plants are characterised by their long flower spikes, often a metre or more, which can have up to 25 or 30 flowers, depending on the variety. The flowers are long‑lasting and may last for as long as 10 to 12 weeks on the plant.

Cymbidiums are not difficult to grow provided a few of their cultural requirements are understood. For a cymbidium to flower successfully it requires as much light as possible in the summer, and a night temperature drop of between 5 and 10^oC, which generally ensures a successful flower spike set.

The miniature cymbidiums are less dependant on the diurnal temperature range, as their ancestors originated in tropical conditions. By and large cymbidiums can withstand a wide range of temperatures, although it is not advisable to grow them unprotected in areas which receive heavy frosts. The large flowering cymbidiums do not do well in hot tropical areas.

LIGHT REQUIREMENTS

Poor light is often the most common reason why an orchid fails to bloom. Remember cymbidiums are vigorous growers and require as much light as possible in the summer and autumn. The optimum is to shade your plants with 30 to 40 percent shade cloth. Where this is not possible, place your plants on an east facing wall, which will allow them to get full summer sun until about 11 a.m. every day.

The quickest way to assess whether your plants are receiving the correct light is by the colour of’ the leaves, which should be yellow green. Very dark green leaves indicate a plant that has been heavily shaded and in most cases will not produce a flower spike.

WATER REQUIREMENTS

During the summer cymbidiums require a large amount of water. If one’s potting mix is very porous and the day temperatures are high, daily watering will probably be necessary. During the cooler months watering every three to five days is sufficient.

FEEDING

As already stated cymbidiums are vigorous growers and therefore require a constant supply of nutrients. During the main spring and summer growing period feed your plants a high nitrogen feed, such as 3:1:1 or 5:1:5 slow release bi‑annually, with a little phosphate supplement in the winter.

Remember not to over‑fertilise your plants, because the resultant salt buildup causes leaf and root damage. An over‑fertilised plant shows tip burn. This problem can easily be overcome — either repot the plant or flush the soil thoroughly with water to remove excess salts.

If you are a lazy gardener the plant fertiliser spikes are also satisfactory. A bi-annual application would suffice.

POTTING MIX

Most specialist growers have their own mix, but you will find that medium grade local pine bark (40 percent by mass), 30 percent coarse riversand, 30 percent neutral peat with a cup of superphosphate per cubic metre will work well.

GROWTH HABITS

Cymbidiums are evergreen with long leaves and a base of thick bulb‑like swellings called pseudobulbs, which act as storage organs for food and water. Most plants start their new growth cycle in late winter or early spring. A new growth or growths emerge from the base of the pseudobulbs.

Flower spikes are produced during the summer at the base of the new growth.

REPOTTING AND PROPAGATION

Repotting is best done in early summer when root growth activity is increasing. The plant should be removed from the pot and all the old potting mix washed off. Then break the plant into three and four bulb divisions and cut away the old and broken roots with flame‑sterilised secateurs.

Select a new container which will allow the plants at least two years growth. Hold the plant two to three centimetres below the rim of the pot and add the mix, shaking the pot at intervals to ensure the mix fills all the gaps between the roots. Then water the plant well and keep in the shade for a week. The repotted plant should flower in the following season.

Where possible remove the backbulbs and strip them of their leaf fragments and roots. Place the bulbs in 7,5cm pots, in a warm location. New growth should occur within six weeks. These new plants will flower within two to three years.

STAKING

Staking is very important as it ensures the flowers are presented correctly. The flower spikes are also long and heavy and therefore require staking. Usually a heavy gauge wire cut into metre lengths is adequate. Tie your plant to the stake at intervals.

PESTS AND DISEASES

Aphids are a common pest found on the flower spikes. Spray them with Baysol or any appropriate organic insecticide. Red spider mite are the most serious pest of cymbidiums. As most are resistant to the commonly sold miticides, try to maintain a relatively high humidity around the plants, which helps keep them in check.

While roses are considered by many gardeners to be the Queen of the garden, Rhododendrons are said to be the King.

The vivid displays produced by rhododendrons and azaleas can last for several months. There are plants to suit any garden — but to thrive they must have acid soil and good drainage.

Rhododendrons and azaleas are among the most decorative shrubs available for the home garden. Varying in size from mat‑like dwarf shrubs only a few centimetres high to trees higher than 7m, they can be planted in any size of garden and thrive in a variety of positions.

The Rhododendron gets its name from the Greek — rhodon (rose) and dendron (tree). The genus was officially established and named in 1753 by the Swedish botanist, Linnaeus. At the same time he created the separate genus of Azalea. In the 19th century another botanist, George Don, realised there was no botanical difference between Rhododendron and Azalea, and both species were classified in the genus Rhododendron. They remain so today, though gardeners still prefer to talk of rhododendrons and azaleas as two separate types of plants. Rhododendrons are mainly evergreen shrubs. Azalea mollis is deciduous, and two very popular groups, Rhododendron obtuseum and the Kurume azaleas, are both evergreens. Rhododendron indicum, the other variety grown extensively in South Africa, is also an evergreen, but has much smaller foliage.

The plants are mainly native to the northern hemisphere, although some species do occur in Malaysia and New Guinea, and one rhododendron is native to the rain forests of northern Queensland. Botanists differ on the number of species, but it is thought to be in the region of one thousand.

The one thing that rhododendrons have in common is that, in nature, they are usually found from 1000m to as high as 5 500m above sea level. The greatest number of species occur in India, Burma and China, at the eastern end of the Himalayan mountain range. Rhododendrons also occur in Japan, the USA, parts of Europe, and one hardy species, a low‑growing shrub which flourishes in the tundra, follows the Arctic Circle from Siberia to Greenland.

The flowers of rhododendrons and azaleas have a wide range of colour: white, pink, lavender, violet, purple, yellow, crimson, scarlet and orange. The shapes of the flowers range through tubular, starry, funnel, bowl and bell‑shaped, varying in size from 2‑15 cm wide and 2‑10cm long.

In the past, the rhododendron was often regarded only as a cool climate plant, and the development of new varieties was carried out mainly in the northern hemisphere. The tendency was to encourage late flowering to avoid frosts.

Over the last 25 years, however, breeders in Australia and New Zealand have successfully encouraged early flowering to avoid the heat of the summer. A number of varieties which reach their flowering peak between late winter and mid‑spring are now available. These early flowering varieties should have a much longer flowering period than the older types of rhododendron, and are suitable for all areas except those subject to late frosts. In the future, tropical species may be used to produce rhododendron hybrids well suited to humid coastal areas.

The Indica azaleas, a popular group derived from the Rhododendron indicum and Rhododendron simsii species, can be grown over a much wider climatic range than most other types. Deciduous azaleas, as well as the small-flowered Kurume varieties, are better suited to cooler climates.

Although the majority of rhododendrons are cool climate plants, many of them grow quite well in temperate coastal regions. It is worth remembering that those described as ‘tender’ in European or North American books or catalogues are more likely to be suitable for South Africa than the ‘hardy’ species.

Rhododendrons need to be grown in dappled or light shade. The soil should be moist and acid — the plants will not thrive in soil containing chalk or lime. Given the right conditions, a succession of varieties can be in flower for several months of the year.

Generally, the plants look their best in a natural or wilderness garden, where they are not restricted to the formal confines of beds and lawns.

The smaller rhododendrons and azaleas are most effective when used boldly in a mass planting. Kurume azaleas or deciduous azaleas should be planted in groups — either mixed or in one colour — for a brilliant display of blooms. The Kurume varieties make a splendid border for a path or driveway, while the deciduous azaleas are particularly attractive with a background of evergreen plants. Such a background shows up the warm autumn tints of the leaves borne by some deciduous varieties.

Many rhododendrons (particularly the larger varieties) are best planted with other plants to ensure the maximum effect during the long periods when evergreen rhododendrons are out of flower, and the deciduous kinds have not yet reached the autumn-colouring stage. The soil which suits rhododen­drons allows for a wide range of plants to be grown with them.

The larger flowered rhododendrons produce such a mass of colour that they should be planted in a very large garden; otherwise they are best used as accent plants among other shrubs and trees. They do not mix with dwarf conifers, but look well in a mixed border of assorted deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees. Beware of dense‑growing trees which create too much shade, or those with powerful or very shallow root systems.

A massed planting of azaleas under a light canopy of deciduous trees, preferably with a tap root, will make for a very effective combination.

Camellias are also ideal for growing with rhododendrons. Low‑growing plants such as heath or heather, which thrive in acid soil, are also of ornamental value. You can grow many ground‑cover plants, or ferns with fine contrasting foliage, with rhododendrons to provide additional colour.

THE WIDE CHOICE FROM GIANTS TO DWARFS

Because rhododendrons and azaleas range in size from tree‑like giants to prostrate dwarfs, you should decide on the space you have to fill before buying your shrubs.

The size of the plants can vary considerably according to the climate of the area in which they are grown. The heights given here are average figures; in some areas the plants may grow smaller, in others where climate and other growing conditions are ideal, they may grow taller.

Tree‑like plants (over 4,5m) The biggest rhododendrons are evergreens which grow to 6m and more. They are suitable only for large gardens where their vigorous growth will not be restricted. Rhododendron ponticum does well in regions with mild winters. It has mauve flowers which appear in early to late spring.

Large bushes (2‑4,5m) Evergreens suited for smaller gardens include many varieties derived from Rhododendron indicum: ‘Magenta’ (deep magenta), ‘Grandiflora Alba’ (white), ‘Flambeau’ (brick red), ‘Stella’ (red), ‘Multiflora’ (salmon pink), ‘Reine de Pays Bas’ (rich violet‑pink with white margin).

Medium shrubs (1‑2,5m) The deciduous azaleas are all medium‑sized bushes, which make them popular in gardens of average size, but they do not do well in areas with hot summers and mild winters. The Exbury hybrids give a wide range of colours, from yellow to delicate pinks.

Small bushes (60cm‑1m) Two attractive Australian‑raised hybrids are ‘Little Girl’ (pale pink flowers) and ‘Only One Earth’ (cerise red flowers). Some favourites of the evergreen azaleas in this group are: ‘Claude Goyet’ (red, very large double), ‘Madame Moreau’ (double pink with frilly white margins), ‘Red Wing’ (cerise red), ‘Souvenir de Prince Albert’ (soft rose-pink, edged white), ‘Temperance’ (lilac mauve), ‘Violaceae’ (rich violet-purple). The evergreen azaleas of the Kurume or Indica groups are particularly suitable for small to medium‑sized gardens, and are well suited to warm climates. Both groups are commonly grown in temperate zones from humid coastal areas to the cooler highlands.

Indicas are usually large‑flowered varieties, while. the flower’s of Kurume azaleas are comparatively small. ‘Albert and Elizabeth’ (double white with a rose margin) and ‘Pink Pearl’ (double light pink) are popular Indica types. ‘Snowflake’ (white flowers) and ‘Coral Bells’ (pink flowers) are Kurume plants, and bear masses of blooms in mid‑ to late spring.

Dwarf bushes (30‑60cm) Dwarf evergreen hybrids, suitable for rock gardens, pots or tubs, include ‘Ambrosius’ (bright red flowers), ‘Gretel’ (silvery pink cyclamen edge) and ‘Madame Auguste Haerrens’ (soft pink‑edged white).

Watch for future posts which will deal with cultivation of, and care for Rhododendrons and Azaleas, as well as the pests and diseases that sometimes afflict these beautiful shrubs.

This beautiful flower is actually native to the highlands of Mexico and was grown by the Aztecs in the region near the present site of Mexico City.

Dahlia flowers are popular landscape plants known for their wide range of colours, heights and forms. These versatile flowers are ideal for novice gardeners.

In relation to other genera, the dahlia is a fairly new addition to the garden scene. Baron Alexander von Humboldt, a naturalist and statesman, brought some of the first dahlia seeds from their native Mexico to Germany as recently as 1805. There is also a record of dahlias flowering only a few years previously in 1789 in the botanical gardens in Madrid. All dahlias were reproduced from seed until about 1820 when it was discovered that they could be grown successfully from cuttings. The first double‑flowering, pure white dahlia was hybridized in Holland in 1821 and the first cactus dahlia a mere 100 years ago in 1872.

Dahlias are tender, tuberous rooted plants, varying in height from a few centimetres to about two metres, and with flowers from button size to dinner plate size, depending on the variety and type of culture. Dahlias come in all colours and combinations of colours, and those with the largest blooms are usually the result of special forcing and pruning techniques used for show purposes. These show flowers are generally found on tall single stemmed plants with the stems sometimes as thick as broom sticks.

DAHLIA TYPES

The most popular dahlia types are:

DECORATIVE with fully double flowers having the margins of florets slightly incurved and flattened towards tips which may be pointed or rounded.

CACTUS with flower heads fully double but the margins of the flowers revolute for not less than three‑quarters of their length and the central florets form a filbert-shaped group.

SEMI-CACTUS which is midway between decorative and cactus with the florets broad at the base, and the margins revolute towards the tips, slightly twisted for about half their length.

POMPOM in which the flowers are also fully double but the flower head is completely rounded and not more than five centimetres across.

Dahlias form a valuable addition to the summer garden with their colourful and profuse blooms. They may be grown in a herbaceous border, but they are perhaps most valuable in beds by themselves, where their varying colours and heights can be shown to greatest effect.

To promote a compact, bushy growing habit, with more flowers, pinch back the new growth when your dahlia is about 30cm high. If your goal is to produce massive sized flowers, remove all of the side buds at the end of each branch throughout the growing season. If you want your Dahlia to provide a continuous, extended flower show, you will need to remove the spent buds promptly.

Dahlias are produced in nurseries by placing selected tubers in heated trenches and taking cuttings as the sprouts emerge from the tuber which will produce about 15 sprouts over a period of some months. The cut end of the sprout is dipped in a hormone solution and the sprout is then placed in a tray of sand. When the cutting has produced the small beginnings of a tuber at its base it is planted out in a field where it will produce a fully fledged tuber before the onset of winter.

Although there is a choice between buying locally grown or imported dahlias in South Africa, it is best to purchase locally grown tubers as they are fresh and have been adapted to suit our climate and seasonal changes. South African tubers are lifted in May from the nursery beds and planted by the home gardener after the threat of frost has passed in early September, thus assuring them of the natural four months rest period, as opposed to the year which has passed between the lifting and planting of imported tubers, due to their different seasons.

Dahlias are gross feeders and need a deep rich soil with plenty of compost and well‑rotted manure dug in. A sunny position is essential, and one should wait until the weather starts to warm up and all danger of frost has passed before planting the tubers with their necks a few centimetres below the soil surface. Large varieties should be spaced about 60cm apart while the smaller or dwarf ones can be planted 35cm apart.

The soil should never be allowed to dry out as this will prevent flowering, so mulching is essential, and if you are in an area suffering from lack of water, plant each dahlia so that the soil above it forms a slight depression to prevent run‑off when using your precious water. Once the dahlias have sprouted above the surface of the soil, it is essential that they be staked, and if good blooms are wanted, pruning and disbudding should be practised as necessary.

PROTECTING YOUR DAHLIAS

Keep your dahlias weed-free. Weeds compete for water, nutrients, and light, and often harbor harmful insects and diseases. Mulches are effective in controlling weeds. Organic mulches like straw and hay keep the soil cool and conserve moisture. They are particularly desirable in the heat of summer.

Dahlias are susceptible to several diseases, the most common of which are in the virus group, although this is less of a problem in healthy, large tubers. Powdery mildew is commonly found where plants are massed closely together for effect, thus causing moist conditions within the foliage. Spray with a fungicide to eradicate this.

Aphids and cutworms are the principal pests which attack dahlias, and these can be combated with insecticide and cutworm bait. The tender new growth of a Dahlia is a favourite entree of slugs and snails. Take the necessary precautions to protect your plants

USING THE FLOWERS

The high point of growing dahlias is enjoying the flowers. They may appear any time in summer, depending upon the varieties and types you’re growing. To use dahlias as cut flowers, cut the blossoms when they are fully open. Use sharp shears or a knife to cut a long enough stem for the use intended. Plunge the cut ends into warm water immediately. When you’re ready to arrange the flowers, cut off about 4mm of the stem base and place the stems in warm water. Be sure to use a sharp knife or shears. Using floral preservatives or changing the water every 2–3 days will increase the life of cut flowers. Another useful technique is to place the basal 25mm of each stem in boiling water for 1 minute while shielding the leaves and upper stem and flowers from the steam and heat.

STORING TUBERS

To store your precious tubers for the next growing season, make sure the plants are well fed throughout the growing period so that they can store up food in the tubers. As soon as the plants start yellowing usually in mid-autumn — cut the plants to within a few centimetres of the soil surface and lift the tubers. Rinse surplus mud off the tubers, let them dry off in a cool spot, and then place them in boxes, buried in clean river sand or wood shavings. Be sure to label each box with the type, colour and so on of the tubers stored in it. The boxes should be left in a cool dry place in your shed or garage until spring when once again it is time to plant them.

Plant Jasmine and experience the delight of a very fragrant spring and summer garden.

The sweet fragrance of the jasmine flower makes it a welcome plant in many gardens. The plant parts have several uses from making tea to perfume, cosmetics, medicines and food flavourings.

The name Jasmine is derived from the Persian yasmin which means ‘a gift from God’ — so named because of the intense fragrance of the blooms of Persian or common jasmine Jasminum officinale. There are over 300 Jasminum species that occur mainly in the tropical and warm temperate regions of the world — including South Africa — although a few are found in countries with cold winters. Jasmine is a very popular flower around the world, because of its unique fragrance.

The scent rising off the petals is indeed sweet … narcotic … intoxicating … all those clichés for intense good smells and more. But for the gardener, after the first enjoyable snorts, there is as much wonder at what it means, as how pleasant it is. This perfume floating through the night air is, effectively, the nocturnal language of plants.

Decoded, the perfume is the plant’s hormonal system in full song, there to attract the moths that are its pollinators. But increasingly, scientists think there is a far larger story. The ecological import of floral perfumes, where in plants it is expressed, how and when, is only beginning to be understood. Uncertainty is also the rule for how minute differences in basically the same compound can make a scent seductive or obnoxious, how it can steer this pollinator this way and that pollinator another.

The signature chemical of jasmine, called jasmonate, is a very important chemical in plants. It is not restricted to Jasmine but is also found in roses, citrus, many of the heavy lifters in the scented garden. What jasmonate does depends on where you find it in the plant, in what form and in what concentrations. In some cases it may attract pollinators and, in others, repel predators and even act as alarm signals to entire plant networks. Used in warehouses, it can even stop potatoes from sprouting.

Jasmine is found in more than 83% of all women’s scents and 33% of men’s. More than five million flowers must be gathered to produce one kilo of what is known as ‘pure jasmine absolute’. As a result, much of the jasmine used in perfume is a chemical approximation.

But I digress, back to growing Jasmine in your garden.

Unlike most genera in the Oleceae family, which have four corolla lobed petals, Jasmines often have five or six lobes. Jasmine is widely cultivated for its shining leaves and beautiful clusters of fragrant flowers.

Flowering in Jasmines takes place in summer or spring, usually six months after planting. The Jasmine flower releases its fragrance at night after the sun has set and especially when the moon is waxing towards fullness. Jasmine flower buds are more fragrant than the flowers.

Most species grow as scrambling climbers or sprawling shrubs and can also be massed as groundcover in large gardens. The leaves can either be evergreen or deciduous. Your pruning will determine the growth habit. Most will also grow well in containers.

GROWING JASMINE

The majority of jasmine species are not frost‑tolerant. The best planting time is late spring or summer, which allows the plant adequate time to establish before the winter.

Jasmine requires plenty of direct sunlight in order to grow well. Grow yours in a site that receives at least five hours of direct sunlight daily. If you grow it indoors, place the container in an east window. Inadequate sunlight encourages fungal infections, such as powdery mildew.

However, exposure to strong direct sunlight is also harmful. Take measures, especially during the summer, to protect the plant from intense midday sunlight. Otherwise, the leaves and blossoms are likely to wilt.

Give your plant adequate water throughout the early growing phase. Do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Inadequate water will hinder healthy growth and prevent proper development of roots. The plant requires about 4 inches of water weekly, best in two to three doses each week.

Be careful not to give excessive water, which will create soggy soils. Root rot may then develop, negatively impacting the plant’s health. Cut back on watering once the plant has established well.

During periods of reliable rainfall, you need not give much supplementary water. However, be sure to water well during the summer and other periods of hot, dry weather.

Do not overlook the need to fertilise regularly. The plant responds well to frequent application of fertilizer. However, avoid strong fertilisers, as these may overwhelm the plant or even kill it. Use a moderate fertiliser, rich in phosphorous. Apply twice a year, in the spring and fall. Fertiliser will encourage healthy growth and abundant blooming.

Avoid planting jasmine in limited spaces. Overcrowding impairs the growth of the plants. It restricts good air circulation and prevents roots and foliage from growing comfortably.

CHOOSING JASMINE FOR YOUR GARDEN

JASMINES FOR FROSTY GARDENS

Chinese Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum)

This is probably the most widely known jasmine in South Africa because it tolerates temperatures of ‑7^oC. In such a climate this 4 ‑ 5m climbing jasmine is deciduous. An abundance of reddish‑pink flower buds appear in late winter and early spring, followed by fragrant five‑petalled, star‑shaped white flowers about 2 cm in diameter. It tolerates more shade than other jasmines and is fairly waterwise.

Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum)

This 1 ‑ 2m shrub from China was often used as a hedge plant or windbreak in the older and larger gardens of the past. As it tolerates severe frost (‑ 18^oC) and survives periods of drought, it is a valuable garden plant. In addition it provides colour in winter with its small bright yellow, unscented blooms. In cold regions it is deciduous.

Stephan’s Jasmine (Jasminum x stephanense)

This vigorous evergreen climber grows to 8m or more. In spring and summer it bears small, fragrant white to pale pink blooms. It tolerates temperatures of O^oC, and occasional mild frosts which may cut it back, but it will restore itself quickly.

JASMINES FOR WARM, FROST-FREE GARDENS

Common White Jasmine (Jasminum officinale)

This waterwise jasmine from the Middle East is a deciduous to semi‑evergreen lanky shrub that generally grows to 4,5m high. It can easily reach up to 12m when grown up structures such as trees, trellises or arbours. Heavily‑scented white flowers about 2cm wide are borne in clusters from early spring to early autumn. The flowers are followed by poisonous black berries.

Azores Jasmine (Jasminum azoricum)

From the Island of Madeira, this 2 ‑ 3m shrubby evergreen climber is fairly tolerant of dry conditions. It bears fragrant 2,5 cm wide blooms in summer.

Red Jasmine (Jasminum beesianum)

This 4m tall deciduous climber from China needs to be trained up a support. Fragrant red and pink blooms are borne in spring and summer.

Arabian Jasmine (Jasminum sambac)

The common name is rather misleading since this jasmine is found in the Philippines, India, Myanmar and Sri Lanka. It is an evergreen climber reaching up to 3m tall. In subtropical gardens it flowers almost continuously all year round. The 3cm wide flowers are white with a hint of purple, and strongly scented.

INDIGENOUS SOUTH AFRICAN JASMINES

Southern Africa has a number of jasmine species. They occur in frost‑free parts of the country and will not grow in frosty gardens.

Starry Wild Jasmine or Bush Jasmine (Jasminum multipartitum)

This climber bears highly scented blooms from late winter to midsummer, which makes it a popular garden plant. The flowers are solitary but occur in profusion. They are white with deep pink beneath. Starry jasmine will climb readily if provided with a trellis or some other support. If not supported it will form a dense bush. It grows well in a container. The cultivar jasminum multipartitum ‘Evening Star’ has larger porcelain‑white flowers with a rich pink reverse.

Bushveld Jasmine (Jasminum breviflorum)

Found in the bushveld, this is a scrambling shrub that can be trained as a climber. In spring and summer it bears sweetly scented white flowers.

South African Jasmine (Jasminum angulare or Jasminum capense)

In summer this vigorous, evergreen climbing jasmine bears clusters of fragrant white, starry, tubular 3cm wide flowers. It can withstand temperatures down to 0^oC.

Climbing Jasmine (Jasminum fluminense)

This is a large, vigorous evergreen climber with small, fragrant white blooms. It flowers from spring into summer.

Rock or Hairy Jasmine (Jasminum stenolobum)

This is an evergreen climber that can also be kept pruned to a shrub shape. The spring and summer blooms are highly fragrant. They are white with pink underneath the petals.This jasmine prefers well‑drained soil and tolerates dry conditions, but not frost.

A separate, comprehensive feature on South African Jasmines will be posted on this site shortly, so come back soon.

FALSE JASMINE

Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) also known as Confederate Jasmine is not from the Jasminum genus.  The later part of the name indicates that it resembles a true Jasmine — the spring and summer flowers are star-shaped and highly scented. Since this rambling evergreen climber from China toerates moderate frost (-5^oC) it is a commonly grown plant in frosty gardens.

A separate profile of Star Jasmine will be posted on this site shortly, so come back soon.